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I'm thinking about turning my R32 into a drift car instead of trying to sell it.. I have the following shopping cart planned but my friend said I needed a few extra things.

My currently planned list:

  • Coilover Suspension
  • Suede deep-dish steering wheel w/ boss kit
  • sparco seat
  • fmic
  • LSD

However he's informed me that once I upgrade from wet roads to dry roads, I could risk twisting my chassis unless I install something like that brace that runs through the center of the car.

So that said, what else am I going to need for getting into dry road drifting (obv. I'm talking track)

Edited by SKITTLES
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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367017-whats-needed-for-basic-drift-setup/
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Lets see... what did I do to my car to make it driftable... I think I took it to Oran Park... pic related

n639839121_1630968_4930.jpg

On a more serious note, swaybars will make your slides easier to catch. Other than that you really don't need much, especially if you are just starting

basics

-locked diff. sure you can get a 1.5 or 2 way LSD but they are expensive and not required. Lockers aren't perfect but it's a drift car, not a time attack race car.

-a working clutch

-skid rims and tyres.

-remove HICAS

-alignment.

extras

-coilovers

-swaybars

Power isn't needed. You want the car to handle well and be predictable. Save funds for repairs, servicing and tyres.

Car damage is apart of drifting.

Edited by Peter89

So much torque, the chassis twisted coming off the line

win-one-internet.jpg

if it's a r32, an rb25 will be a good place to start, lol

*waits for all the RB20 fanbois to get sand in their vaginas

The original plan was to put an RB25 into it, seeing as the engine has 227,000KM on the clock. But the existing RB20DET is going stronger than my RB25DE with 165000km...

basics

-locked diff. sure you can get a 1.5 or 2 way LSD but they are expensive and not required. Lockers aren't perfect but it's a drift car, not a time attack race car.

-a working clutch

-skid rims and tyres.

-remove HICAS

-alignment.

extras

-coilovers

-swaybars

Power isn't needed. You want the car to handle well and be predictable. Save funds for repairs, servicing and tyres.

Car damage is apart of drifting.

12293_380244637013_520517013_3901770_4183248_n.jpg

This is pretty much my favorite pic atm.

Thanks for the tips though, I think I'll get a locker and use that for a bit before getting a 2 way lsd.

I don't know if it's got hicas, but i'll check it out tonight.

who teh fark said the chassis will twist and that you should out one of those pointless floor bar things in the car?

Well actually, the chassis will twist/flex a bit as soon as you sit in the car.

You callin' me fat? :P

So the floor bar thingo is pointless?

locked diff, no need to spend $1000+ on a LSD when a shimmed diff will do the same thing

a good seat, Velo seats are great and can get them pretty cheap

make sure the handbrake works to:P

thats all you need to start, anything else is pretty much extra

steering rack spacers are win and cost next to nothing

there are some basic engine mods that will help a lot (fmic, exhaust and more boost)

go watch some in car drifting videos, helps a lot at least knowing what you need to do

I was thinking of getting a $400 pair of seats hahaha just el cheapos... wonder if they're any good >.>

Yeah, gotta change the brake pads. I'll have to do the rear brakes, they don't seem to be grabbing the wheels too hard.

newbie question here,

Do you need any surge tanks or to change to a different sump, just wondering when your flying sideways wether theres still enough oil and fuel going in??

as long as you don't run low on fuel it shouldn't be a issue, stock sumps are fine to

Seriously, just drift it as it is. If you don't like an aspect of your car you will either quickly find out and change it or learn to just deal with it. Standard cars aren't undriftable, it's just harder :thumbsup:

Though... just to contradict myself, it is handy to have something to hold you in place. In my experience a harness with a factory seat works much better than an aftermarket seat with a factory seat belt. Grabs less attention from the police too ;)

Seriously, just drift it as it is. If you don't like an aspect of your car you will either quickly find out and change it or learn to just deal with it. Standard cars aren't undriftable, it's just harder :thumbsup:

Though... just to contradict myself, it is handy to have something to hold you in place. In my experience a harness with a factory seat works much better than an aftermarket seat with a factory seat belt. Grabs less attention from the police too ;)

Interesting thought about the harness....

As for leaving stock; the R32 has a lot of body roll and whilst it's still very driftable (not that I'd know >.>) it's a little unpredictable. Easier to stiffen the suspension and put some sway bars in before I head out.

Due to money, I can't get out on the track fo ra while, so might as well save up in the meantime for the gear.

newbie question here,

Do you need any surge tanks or to change to a different sump, just wondering when your flying sideways wether theres still enough oil and fuel going in??

For future reference; I've never had an oil problem with the car sideways, but I've only done it a couple times and was too busy watching other things.

I DO know, however, that when I was testing the brakes in it, I smashed them to the floor and the oil pressure (or whatever it is) guage suddenly dropped and the car almost stalled.

oil level might have been low.

for all RB's it pays to overfill the sump by half a liter.. cant go wrong with that. same with fuel in the tank. make sure its over half and there wont be any issues.

as for whats needed.. just an LSD that works.

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