What to do with R32 GTST RB20DET to get it into the low 12s in the 1/4 mile (400m)

[Akela]

Hey neil_se and -Joel-, fundamently to get a fwd off the line well u need slicks due to obvious traction problems, u guys have a clear advantage over us obviously due to the car being rwd!

BTW my car weighs 1100 kg, a little lighter that an s13 but not much!

But back on to topic, i think it'd be nice to build a serious ca to run those times down the quarter, but i don't think u'll do it with the low quality imprts we inherentily get. Just in general the silvia being an older car it will have a few miles on it and hence be i porrere condition, i.e trying to obtain 12's may be a task without blowing up the motor or rebuilding urs. If u were to rebuild urs, and go the aftermarket ecu, fmic, 3inch exhaust, VL T3, Custom manifold and 550cc injectors, then u'd definately have a very quick car able of the times u want.

However the whole hassel of pulling the motor out and putting it back in which may make u think hey why not throw the rb in! Being a 6 the motor itself may be happier supporting similar powerr due to the fact that the same power only will be needed however it is spred of 6 cyl rather than 4 making it easier for u to mod it and not blow it up. Do the same mods to it as the ca, probably a t4 rather than t3 and it'll be a formidable street car!

[Roy]

So who really gives a toss!!!

So how do I run 12's?

You tell 'em tiger.... my thoughts are that i may be close to a high 11 if i play with susp and tyres, something im not too keen on doing. Tyres are ok, but i like my susp too much to change just to get better 1/4 times.

I have a 2nd hand TD06-20g, HKS cooler, GTR Injectors, clutch, re-mapped ECU, and before i venture onto Calder ill have cam gears, GTR cams and most likely some BF Goodrich Drag radials on 16" R32 GTR rear rims / or just some D01J Type R 17s. So power and tyre wise i should be good for a low 12, maybe a high 11, but who knows how suitable my susp and driving will be.

What i need is someone telling me rough time difference between running 16" BF Goodrish drag radials on lightweight GTR rims, and 17" D01Js on lightweight 17s, both rubber 235 or 245 wide....0.5second difference....0.2, none at all?

[Chris32]

You tell 'em tiger.... my thoughts are that i may be close to a high 11 if i play with susp and tyres, something im not too keen on doing. Tyres are ok, but i like my susp too much to change just to get better 1/4 times.

I have a 2nd hand TD06-20g, HKS cooler, GTR Injectors, clutch, re-mapped ECU, and before i venture onto Calder ill have cam gears, GTR cams and most likely some BF Goodrich Drag radials on 16" R32 GTR rear rims / or just some D01J Type R 17s.  So power and tyre wise i should be good for a low 12, maybe a high 11, but who knows how suitable my susp and driving will be.

What i need is someone telling me rough time difference between running 16" BF Goodrish drag radials on lightweight GTR rims, and 17" D01Js on lightweight 17s, both rubber 235 or 245 wide....0.5second difference....0.2, none at all?

Sounds like you are going to have a well sorted package there Roy

I would say the BF Drag radials will give you a much better 60ft time than even the best R rated semi-slicks. Don't know how much exactly, as I have never seen or heard of the same car running back to back on differant rubber

My plan is for about 220-230rwkw, with as much mid-range as possible. I dont want to change suspension to a drag type setup, as thats cheating in my books - run it they way you drive it everyday - hopefully it will be enough to run a 12

What type of gearbox/diff are you running?

[Roy]

What type of gearbox/diff are you running?

Standard Engine - Check

Standard Gearbox - Check

Standard Diff - Check Still hasnt started to open wheel, mayeb because i dont do burnouts etc

Have a 6 puck single plate clutch.

... and something my car lacks is midrange, so im relying on bucket loads of top end. The mid range situation is the reason im going for cam gears and cam change. I dont even know how much power im making, other then it makes me smile

[RBsileighty]

Standard Engine - Check  

Standard Gearbox - Check  

Standard Diff - Check  Still hasnt started to open wheel, mayeb because i dont do burnouts etc

Have a 6 puck single plate clutch.

... and something my car lacks is midrange, so im relying on bucket loads of top end.  The mid range situation is the reason im going for cam gears and cam change. I dont even know how much power im making, other then it makes me smile

So you did you decided to run those GTR cams Roy? I'm thinking seriously on the GTR's after we spoke over pm a few days ago... They should wake up my GT25R a fair amount (that turbo is the reason I'm not buying the cams until winter). Did you decide to use them with just GTR springs or the whole solid works?

I'd imagine with the 20 in my car, I should be about the same weight as you are... or slightly less. Hopefully I can pull the same low 12's high 11's that you might run (Hybrid FMIC, 3-4" tapered GReddy TR2 exhaust, no cat, MKIV fuel pump, 550cc S5 inj, K&N pod filter, S-AFC 5 knob, and RB25 MAF). I still might need some more control over the engine... not sure though.

[Sydneykid]

Sounds like you are going to have a well sorted package there Roy

I would say the BF Drag radials will give you a much better 60ft time than even the best R rated semi-slicks. Don't know how much exactly, as I have never seen or heard of the same car running back to back on different rubber

My plan is for about 220-230rwkw, with as much mid-range as possible. I don’t want to change suspension to a drag type setup, as that’s cheating in my books - run it they way you drive it everyday - hopefully it will be enough to run a 12

What type of gearbox/diff are you running?

Hi Chris, I can't give you R32 GTST or 180SX times but I can give you R34 GTT times which may help. Same car, 290 rwkw using 16" and 17" wheels did;

11.9 at 120 mph on 17" Nitto 555's

12.4 at 114 mph on 17" normal road tyres

11.6 at 123 mph on 16" Goodyear drag slicks

As for drag style suspension, this car had much softer rear spring rates than you would find in the typical Japanese coil overs. But what I consider about the correct rates for Australian roads anyway. The wheel alignment settings where optimised for straight lines and off the line traction (no neg camber and no toe out). Plus the dynamic camber change angles where optimised (didn't go too negative on squat). Plus we added a little anti squat to the rear geometry. The rear stabiliser bars (22mm) is set on its softest setting and the front bar (27mm) is on its hardest. This sort of setting up (optimisation) was easy worth 0.5 second.

None of this detracts from its road handling, if fact it probably has a better ride/handling compromise than most. When we take it to the circuit we, of course, change these setting to something more suited to going around corners on a very smooth surface. Otherwise we would be compromising the lap times and ripping the edges of the tyres to shreds.

So if you want your car to be multitalented then you have to have adjustability, that's not "cheating" it's common sense.

Hope that helps

[400kwgtr]

i reakon you migh as well buy a gtr straight off the bat. by the time u spend the necessary cash on a gtst u could be sitting in godzilla with few mods and run those times. The gtr would have better resale and turn way more heads. cheers

[BU5TER]

i reakon you migh as well buy a gtr straight off the bat. by the time u spend the necessary cash on a gtst u could be sitting in godzilla with few mods and run those times. The gtr would have better resale and turn way more heads. cheers

Mate wake up, for what a stock as a rock 93-94 R32 GTR was costing a year ago, I was able to buy a modded off its tits 1996 R33 gtst, and trust me when I say no GTR with a few mods like you quoted comes any where near me time wise down the 1/4

The GTR can never lose can it? hahaha

[Sumo]

400kwgtr is refering to his banged out 89 model worth $12k

Sumo

[Roy]

So you did you decided to run those GTR cams Roy?  I'm thinking seriously on the GTR's after we spoke over pm a few days ago...  They should wake up my GT25R a fair amount (that turbo is the reason I'm not buying the cams until winter).  Did you decide to use them with just GTR springs or the whole solid works?

I'd imagine with the 20 in my car, I should be about the same weight as you are... or slightly less.  Hopefully I can pull the same low 12's high 11's that you might run (Hybrid FMIC, 3-4" tapered GReddy TR2 exhaust, no cat, MKIV fuel pump, 550cc S5 inj, K&N pod filter, S-AFC 5 knob, and RB25 MAF).  I still might need some more control over the engine... not sure though.

Im in a different state to my car at the moment, but when i get my hands on it im going to drop some new spark plugs in it and at the same time give it a compression test. If all ise well then ill throw the GTR cams and cam gears, some new valve springs and be on my merry way, still using hydraulic lifters...if the engine isnt in the best of health, well ... who knows.

[RBsileighty]

Well good luck bud! Hopefully all turns out well. It was said my motor had 65k on the clock when it was pulled. I will be checking mine as well when it goes in the car... luckily that countdown has turned into days now... sometime next month! I have to buy a turbo now due to my buddy needing my stock one more than me (his daily driver 20 turbo went on him 2 weeks ago). Hey, what are friend for right?

It will be nice to have a quick car at the drags... but I really can't wait to put her on a circuit or auto-x!

[funkymonkey]

I've owned a SR20DET 180sx and a CA18DET 180sx (which was the strawberry face). Anyways, I found the CA18 actually revved a lot more easily than the SR (actually very similar revving to my current RB20DE R32). I managed to get 174rwkw out of the CA18, never actually modified the SR so I couldn't tell ya how differently it responded.

[bretto]

so have we got what mods are needed for the 11-12sec passes in a 32 yet???

to much stuff to read...

[StraightSix]

mostly we were talking about other stuff

J

[RB20LagWagon]

get around 300 rwhp to do mid-high 12s 340-350 rwhp for high 11s. Some traction and a decent drive. Its almost that easy, many threads on how to get power out of our engines.

Ive got r31 with rb20det with hi flow vg30 turbo, mines ecu 1.2 bar boost and the normal bigger fuel pumps full exhaust front mount and ive done a 12.6 at ~113 mph. With tuned ecu bigger injectors im hoping to do a low low 12