Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a list of things to do while the head is off, but keen to hear about anyone's experiences of small items which have failed for others, that might be worth replacing/checking/fixing while the head's off.

knock sensors is one im unsure of, not sure if they are worth doing.

it's an old RB20, 200,000+, seen a tonne of thrashing, a lot of overheating. some of the big obvious stuff which will obviously get done:

head gasket

water pump

timing belt

heater hoses

ideas on anything else?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367048-things-to-do-on-a-headless-block/
Share on other sites

fark with 200 +kms just throw in another motor... average rb20 goes for around 200-400 bucks

but if you have the head off check the valve guides and check the valves for mushrooming. replace stem seals but only if the guides are ok or your wasting your time..

Well if the bottom end is/could be questionable I'd think spending money on its top end is too .

You get so much more bog std from an RB25 that if it can be done legally in your state it'd be my no 1 move .

A good std one tuned properly , std engine + manifolds that is , should eat a 20 in a road car mainly because into the larger bore they had bigger ports and valves .

Other than this a good runner RB20 would be the best bang for buck I think .

A .

fark with 200 +kms just throw in another motor... average rb20 goes for around 200-400 bucks

but if you have the head off check the valve guides and check the valves for mushrooming. replace stem seals but only if the guides are ok or your wasting your time..

engine is fine, just doing a freshen up as ive just done some work to it to push 250rwkw.

head's getting pressure tested, if there's any leaks through the valves they will be checked and seals replaced, if not ill leave them.

New exhaust manifold studs.

thanks mate, already done.

Well if the bottom end is/could be questionable I'd think spending money on its top end is too .

You get so much more bog std from an RB25 that if it can be done legally in your state it'd be my no 1 move .

A good std one tuned properly , std engine + manifolds that is , should eat a 20 in a road car mainly because into the larger bore they had bigger ports and valves .

Other than this a good runner RB20 would be the best bang for buck I think .

A .

dont wanna use a 25 mate, have one sitting a meter away from the car too, doesnt interest me. keep the comments RB20 related, i've been around skylines long enough to know what engine i wanna use lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
×
×
  • Create New...