Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I'm very tempted to buy a 3071R in my quest for 240rwkw+ out of my rb20. I already have a GCG ball bearing high flow but thought with the 3071R i'd prob have the same lag but more power.

I have searched and searched but cant find anyone real results or info on fitting this turbo. Most of the threads on here talk about results they might get or comparing sizes to other turbos.

I know I'll need a new dump pipe which is fine but if there is any known issues with installation then I'm not going to bother, I know a mate from work had problems with his 3076 on his 25, had to use a spacer to clear and the standard lines were impossible to fit.

Apparently some people have also had problems with boost control, cant get it under 22psi.

Any info much appreciated.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367200-garrett-3071r-on-rb20/
Share on other sites

I have searched and searched but cant find anyone real results or info on fitting this turbo.

Apparently some people have also had problems with boost control, cant get it under 22psi.

Any boost control issues have been related to the 0.63 turbine - but only when installed on a RB25 engine. You're going to need to stick some decent boost into a 20 if you want to head up/over the 250kW mark.

It's a fairly straightforward process bolting a GT30 snail onto the manifold and doing water/oil lines. Smaller comp housing might not even require a spacer for clearances. Dump pipe to suit should be readily available, or even a secondhand one if you look around.

It seems that the Kando units are getting good results on RB20s too, check a couple of posts and youtube links that Roy has posted up.

Edited by Dale FZ1

Unless you plan for 260rwkw+

IMO stick with the GCG item. At least it'll not be "too bad" in the response stakes and still deliver 240rwkw on around 20psi

Lot of cost to go 3071 for not much extra top end and more lag

For that sort of boost to ony be making 220rwkws either there is a blockage in the exhaust (cat or collapsed muffler), inlet is sucking shut, or you simply have no ignition in the tune. Think that a std R33 turbo makes around 190rwkws on 14-15psi. So with another 506psi up it would be makign similar power...and a hi flow with its bigger wheels should be flowing more then a std turbo or a 2530.

Its a rb20 highflow from what i was told, not to sure how much smaller it is compared to a rb25 highflow. Might be similar to a HKS2510?

I really have no idea what its making to be honest. And for 20psi I would expect more then 220 which is why I think the tune is rubbish.

Saying that russman made 230 odd with a hks 2530 on 20psi and I think this turbo is of a similar size.

Edited by eightsixboy

Thats not bad on a 20 lag wise.

Honestly more then likely not bothering anymore, the one i was looking at is apparently a cropped version so not really that good a turbo, plus after a re tune i might make 230+ so for an extra 10rwkw it might be a waste of time and money.

I'm running a 2540 on my rb20. Running 16psi and making 220rwkw. Tried running 18psi but it was pinging. Even though im using a ems computer my tuner told me he wasn't able to tune out the pinging. It comes all in at about 4100rpm but i think that feels pretty laggy. Anyways nearly got the s1 rb25 ready to drop in. Will be trying the 2540 on the rb25.

GT2540s are rubbish along with GT2510s . They are examples of the earliest HKS spec Garrett ball bearing turbos that didn't have "Power with Response" . They have thankfully been discontined and replaced by later things like the four and twin six cylinder versions of the GTSS and the GTRS turbos .

In this day and age you'd call a GT2540 a GT2876R because it uses a GT28 NS111 turbine and a non GT era T04E 76mm 46T compressor wheel .

These would be laggy for a GT28 based turbo even on an RB25 I think . Two ways to look at it - either too much compressor for the turbine or not enough turbine for the compressor .

A GT2510 is literally a GT2530 with a short changed turbine .

A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
×
×
  • Create New...