Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

hey mate how do you actuate the screamer?

Poke it in the dump pipe?

Same as a normal wastegate; pressure signal from pressurized inlet tract overcomes spring pressure holding wastegate closed.

Open wastegate releases excess exhaust gas (in this case straight to atmosphere, rather than into the exhaust) reducing the volume of gas available to spin exhaust turbine; thus reducing inlet tract pressure and closing wastegate.

The "screamer" name is due to the fact that the unmuffled wastegate is extremely loud; basically like an open exhaust, while the wastegate is open.

I used a turbosmart 45mm wastegate plumbed in before the turbo, it just dumps excess exhaust gasses to stop the turbo shaft speed from increasing once 26psi is achieved.

I have since plumbed the screamer back into the exhaust which made the boost skyrocket to over 40psi, i dropped the controller down but the tune has changed completely, back to the Dyno again...

There must be a hell of a lot of excess gas from the wastegate!

Is it worth (or can you even fit) a larger dump/ front pipe set up to reduce the back pressure? Does integration angle of the Wastegate pipe into the exhaust cause the boost spiking?

Have you seen BOBBYr34's wastegate venturi set up? That wouldn't take long to fabricate... :blink:

post-49633-0-88438200-1313757661_thumb.jpg post-49633-0-58284800-1310467413_thumb.jpg post-49633-0-41323800-1310467527_thumb.jpg

Not telling you how to row your own boat by any means mate; just curious.

Cheers, Dale

They merge at the 4 inch cat body, not the best flowing setup but more than adequate IMO. The reason for the boost spike is the increased pressure in the exhaust compared to just venting it. Once the controller was setup again the boost level was fine but the tune is still out, especially as the turbo spools.

I will try and get a pic today when I remove the front pipe again.

HOLY FUARK how did i miss this thread!

the epitome of AWESOME!!!

i was just talking to my uncle the other day about getting a gigantic turbo for my stag. so it can just be a lag monster.

i can cruise around as if it was N/A all day and then open it up when i want to! lol

LOVE IT!

getting a gigantic turbo for my stag. so it can just be a lag monster.

I never said 500hp is ordinary, it simply isn't a lag monster with a modern turbo and decent setup. Personally I would prefer a slightly smaller turbo for street use on a heavy wagon.

Bolt an old T88 on a 25 or 26 then you will see what laaaaaaaag city is like.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...