Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

When i read that is assumed that they made the changes to make sure that the RPM signal was correct so the graph was displayed correctly, not that they adjusted the ramp rate by 5.7% to make up for the change of ramp rate that the engine sees. But after re reading it i'm not sure?

Even if not the 5.7% difference in load could not be enough to shift the graph 500rpm, I think the differential ratio is a setting you enter in though. 500rpm is the difference in doing a short run say eg 1st/2nd gear equivalent ramp rate vs 4th gear.

  • Replies 101
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Sorry for the slightly OT question but somebody asked this earlier in this thread and I couldn't find the answer... is the GTX3076R available in an internall gated option, and could it even possibly be made to fit a stock manifold and 6-bolt nissan dump? I don't know if there's an exhaust housing for that. What about fitting it into an OP6 housing? :S Sorry if this has been asked a thousand times already... I did search a bit!

turbine side is exactly the same as the normal 3076 so yes theres plenty of turbine housing options including internal and a 6 bolt (although its not very good). however i wouldnt bother getting a gtx3076 if your using the standard manifold and internal gate as a this will become a major restriction before you max out a normal gt3076, let alone a gtx3076

My normal gt3076r hits 18psi at about 3200-3300 rpm. Probably won't be upgrading to the gtx. Unless it's a gtx35

What gear is that in? And is that dyno, or real driving experience? Just curious because thats quite a quick spool for 3076 from what I know..

I think if every last rpm of response is a necessity, and money isnt really an issue, then sure... Any of the GTX variants would be awesome. Some of the results the Evo guys are getting over there in the USA are quite impressive; and thats on 95!

But otherwise the comparable 'standard' GT turbos will suit any purpose just as well.

Awesome results though; I personally expected the GTX to be a little more impressive. Especially considering the hype that it received.. But, somehow, I can't justify spending the extra cash on a turbo which isn't really that much more..... better. A larger GTX perhaps. :thumbsup:

And also for comparison I ran my brother (on the track of course) same setup pretty much exept his is GTX. Mine still spools up faster.

Mind you I only have my exhaust manifold ported. So no major exhaust flow modd

4th gear on dyno. Second gear on street I hit 18psi below 3500

So you have an RB30 or RB28? Or are using Nitrous?

2nd gear 18psi below 3500rpm is HKS 2530 territory on an RB25.

Edited by simpletool

So you have an RB30 or RB28? Or are using Nitrous?

2nd gear 18psi below 3500rpm is HKS 2530 territory on an RB25.

I honestly don't know what the go with it is too. All I have is a unopened rb25 with cam gears and ported exhaust manifold. Most people say it's impossible but I'm not sure what the go is. Just found my autosalon dyno sheet. But boost controller was on the wrong setting and wasn't hitting 18psi till 5000rpm which was gay lol

You won't be able to read it. Because it's in speed. And I had different diff ratios to stock.

there is a formula to convert speed to RPM and vice versa... diff ratio can be callibrated on the dyno but i dont know if matty would have done that...

post anyway man :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mixing things up - installed some leather recaros to match the leather seat covered rear seats. Interior looks pretty schmick now except for some slight wear on the steering wheel which I will monitor and address if it becomes worse or actually noticeable!  
    • Didnt realise RB's had more then 1 head.
    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
×
×
  • Create New...