Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Iv got a hks ssq bov that doesn't flutter was wondering if there's any way to make it? Don't get me wrong I love the sound of the standard sound but would like to hear Wat it sounds like.fluttering any ideas?

There is a bolt on the back for adjustment..

Thanks

-Jayden-

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370845-hks-ssq-bov-flutter/
Share on other sites

Iv got a hks ssq bov that doesn't flutter was wondering if there's any way to make it? Don't get me wrong I love the sound of the standard sound but would like to hear Wat it sounds like.fluttering any ideas?

There is a bolt on the back for adjustment..

Thanks

-Jayden-

Want flutter? Don't run a bov. A bov is designed to stop compressor surge (flutter)

How do I achieve flutter with out surging?

Blank your bov or block the vacuum line(not with stock bov because it will still open on full boost). im not sure on the hp limit but i wouldnt do it over 300hp. someone should be able to shed some better light on the subject.

Edited by Blueone

^ Shit post is shit

Tightening the BOV or blocking it is just going to cause compressor surge. Stao told me to avoid any compressor surge but I really do like the sound of it.

Only if you tighten it too much.. I think you will find that true compressor surge is actually when the engine cant swallow the boost the turbo is throwing at it.

It will frighten you...

^ Shit post is shit

Tightening the BOV or blocking it is just going to cause compressor surge. Stao told me to avoid any compressor surge but I really do like the sound of it.

Cool story bro!

having no BOV does not cause compressor surge :thumbsup:

Agreed. It was a simple question with a simple answer. if you dont like flutter, then f**k off and dont post. Noone cares what you have to say.

So anyway, back OT, im guessing there will be a little locking nut you need to undo, then wind the screw in a few turns, and re lock the nut.

Just try it on different settings untill you find a sound you like.

I have a Greddy Type RS and did the same. I didnt want flutter, but having it really loose sounded poop, so i tightened it up a touch. I get flutter at very low load/boost and light VAC, but once the boost is up a few psi it opens properly.

I dont see it causing any harm. Has been like it for a year or so now.

Agreed. It was a simple question with a simple answer. if you dont like flutter, then f**k off and dont post. Noone cares what you have to say.

So anyway, back OT, im guessing there will be a little locking nut you need to undo, then wind the screw in a few turns, and re lock the nut.

Just try it on different settings untill you find a sound you like.

I have a Greddy Type RS and did the same. I didnt want flutter, but having it really loose sounded poop, so i tightened it up a touch. I get flutter at very low load/boost and light VAC, but once the boost is up a few psi it opens properly.

I dont see it causing any harm. Has been like it for a year or so now.

Thanks mate did just that it sounds great but I'm running standard turbo standard boost and it sounds like its coming out of the pod but coz its low boost it can't do n e damage can it ?

Thanks mate did just that it sounds great but I'm running standard turbo standard boost and it sounds like its coming out of the pod but coz its low boost it can't do n e damage can it ?

I ran my stock turbo with a blocked BOV since I bought the car. Took it out, there is very minimal shaft play. Never had any issues. The sound will be coming out of your pod.

Some people think flutter is the bov opening and closing rapidly... I don't think this happens. Although those are generally youtube comments. I'm gonna reinstall my turbosmart BOV after I get my plumb back adapter and tighten it up so I get flutter on low boost but don't risk damage on higher boost.

lol to all the people saying surge isnt flutter, they are teh saem thing as the car above on the dyno, just happen when you lift off instead of under load. As far as the turbo is concerned it is the same thing(running too far to the left of the compressor map past the surge line)

Reverb.

The trapped boost pressure when the throttle plate is closed has no here to go but back out through the compressor turbine and out the airfilter.

A BOV releases this pressure so it doesnt have to force its way back through the turbine.

I run my BOV's fairly tight so at low boost you get a reverb(flutter) but anything over 9psi the bov helps to release the pressure.

I have never seen or heard of a turbo dieing due to this.

lol to all the people saying surge isnt flutter, they are teh saem thing as the car above on the dyno, just happen when you lift off instead of under load. As far as the turbo is concerned it is the same thing(running too far to the left of the compressor map past the surge line)

Compressor surge is not flutter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...