Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I have searched now for hours and hours and cant find anything relative to what my situation is, I have a r34 gtt series 2, and my tcs and slip light were on for a week or so of first owning it, reset the ecu and it went away all was good and now it comes up every now and again, the car doesnt missfire or anything and the engine light doesnt turn on at all, car idles fine, i have just replaced the spark plugs and the idle has gone up from 800 to about 1100 and also when you rev the car it doesnt go straight back down to idle anymore, it floats at about 1800 and then goes to around the 1100rpm mark.

I did the ecu test and have a nissan conzult cable and I came up with error code 17, i think it said abs or throttle sensor or something like that, what could it be? its really pissing me off now.

Also im getting really bad fuel economy, 200kms to a tank, checked the o2 sensor on the conzult program and the voltage is around .80 on idle, could it be the o2 sensor, and what should the air fuel ratio be on idle?

Also the car has a slight pop not a full backfire here and there, the car is running standard boost with a pod filter, blitz bov and 3" exhaust, it used to pop alot more regularly but i have tightened the bov a little since and its not as often. Also where can I buy a caliper rebuild kit? as my calipers are getting noisey and I have been told that its the slide on the caliper? and to rebuild the caliper.

Any help is really appreciated in advance, thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371720-a-couple-problems-with-my-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Um, easiest stuff first. You have opposed piston calipers. There are no slides. Without knowing what sort of noise your calipers are making, it's a little hard to know whether to tell you to rebuild them (or get them rebuilt by someone who knows what they're doing) or just to put new pads in and get the disks skimmed.

200 km/tank is ridiculous. O2 sensor could well be stuffed, or your coolant temp sensor could be stuffed. Or your thermostat could be stuck open. 0.8v on the O2 sensor is not correct. It should flick between something close to zero volts and something close to 1v (say 0.2 to 0.9 as a guess) and should do so at least once per second or so. Although, at idle there is often not enough temperature to keep the sensor working properly so it can and will slow down. Nevertheless, it should average to about 0.5v which is about the middle of the sensor's curve. If it is really sitting at 0.8v then it is probably borked.

As to the stuff about your TCS light, TPS sensor, high idle etc....these have all had numerous threads lately. Short version, you could well have a leak letting air into your induction tract (and boost out! and this could well lead to high fuel usage too) and you should check that the TPS is plugged in and then you could look at checking that the TPS is actually working.

First thing to try is put the std BOV back on and see if that fixes all the idle and 'anti-stall' point...

Next thing is the TPS voltage is in the correct range for the ECU - unsure of the exact range but i am sure others will know.

hey well the breaks are making a creaking sound, and you could kind of feel the creak in the pedal if you know what i mean, i was thinking maybe it needs a bleed? pads are as new, also the calipers move a little when the break is pressed? i called nissan for a rebuild kit and he said it comes with the boots and rubbers for the slide aswel? I got the car with this bov and I dont have the standard one, the idle was fine until i changed the spark plugs? how do i check the tps voltage? tps is plugged in, and also as for the o2 sensor when driving it barely moves, where can i get one from? is it genuine nissan only? yeah on idle when i look at the laptop it sits at 0.8 and then every now and again it goes down to 0.0 and straight back up to 0.8 and stays there, could the o2 sensor really cause that much fuel comsumption? as for tcs and slip its not the coils because i had them checked out and their all fine, whats the easiest way to check for leaks? ahhh this bloody rain I cant go out and check anything, thanks.

dead o2 sensor would only increase your fuel consumption maybe from 15 to 20l/100kms max

at that fuel consumption there has to be some underlying problem

what temp does the consult software read when the car has been on a while, it should be about 87°c for a neo (or 82 if running an r33 thermostat)

i'd say the main culprit tho would be a loose hose clamp or split joiner on the intake plumbing somewhere

get some start your bastard and spray that on the intake joints as the motor is running, if the idle changes, you have a leak

On the consult its reading at 83-85 degrees, I get my o2 sensor tomorrow, I'm actually going to get a bunch of them as I'm getting them dirt cheap and will pass the savings on to anyone that needs one on this forum without making a dollar off them, I've already sprayed throttle body cleaner on all the joints it all seems ok? Also my tps is reading at 0.45v on idle, is that where it should be? If someone has the Nissan scan tech program I can send you a log of a test drive if you can tell me something about that? Also would cleaning the tps help? Could it be because I sprayed throttle body cleaner into the throttle body cause it to throw junk onto the sensor? I did kind of go crazy with the stuff as the throttle body was a little dirty, I will let use know as soon as I install the o2 sensor and reset the ecu and go for a nice drive to see how it goes, let me know, thanks.

Hey guys ive got another problem, ive got a leak somewhere around the turbo and its whistling alot more and boost is laggier, its kicking in at 4000rpm, would it be the manifold to engine gasket? or the turbo ones? if i get this kit http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TURBO-GASKET-KIT-SKYLINE-R32-RB20DET-R33-RB25DET-R34-/110598767531?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c03343ab and replace them, should that be ok? is that the gasket kit i need for my car? let me know asap please, thanks.

You have these existing problems but now modify the vehicle further? Fix problems first and then move on before making it worse to diagnose!

blitz bov - This is venting to atmosphere and you are probably getting reversion which means air backwards through the AFM causing a rich temporary reading causing the backfire and potential stalling. Put the factory BOV back on and make sure its pointing to the turbo (and away from the AFM)

You have an intermittent problem with the TCS/ABS system which the ECU is flagging (and then you clearing) but obviously keeps coming back. More information can be had via a proper Nissan consult II scan tool directly in the TCS/ABS units since ECU consult only reports that something bad has happened.

Once you know the proper problem then you will have more information to diagnose further, but nothing we can do on here to help you further until you dig deeper with that one

Hey thanks for your reply, as for the loud whistle when on boost and when you pop your head next to the turbo you can hear a leak, is that the correct gasket kit that I listed above? Let me know ASAP, thanks.

Well, that's a full set of gaskets. You've got manifold-turbo, turbo-dump, oil drain and also outlet elbow (that's the three 3-bolted ones that you'll only need one size of). This will do the job.

But - wouldn't it be easier to work out which gasket needs replacing and work on buying just that one?

Hey man, well since im going to be doing half the job to replace that 1 gasket, why not just replace them all and them im sweet for another 11 years or so how old the car is haha, thats my drift, that whole kit is $54 shipped or just 1 gasket for $19 so its a win win, so sweet thanks for the answer man I'm going to order them now and change them as soon as i get them, and let you know how i go, thanks.

It's just that it's a pain in the arse to take all that shit off if you don't have to. You can break studs and shit that seriously interfere with putting it back together if you're doing it at home - stuff that would have been fine if left alone.

Don't get me wrong, if you're all gung ho and want to take it apart and put it together with fresh gaskets, go right ahead. If nothing else you'll take the skin off your knuckles, you'll gain experience blah blah - and can sink a beer afterwards.

Hey guys, well there's a problem, hes all the way up the central coast, I'm pretty mechanically minded, now could you guys please help me choose which gasket kit to get from the links I post below I would really greatly appreciate it, also another weird thing happened today, my boost gauge is showing the car at -6psi on idle usually it was around -13-15psi, and I tried another gauge and its the same thing, and it only boosts to 5psi max, i was thinking air leak although wouldn't it still be vacuming the same at -15psi? or do I have 2 shot gauges? I replaced my o2 sensor and so far the fuel economy is really good so far, usually after filling up after 50kms quarter of a tank has gone, now I've done about 55kms or so and the needle has just barely moved so I hope that was the fuel problem, also I have a standard BOV coming in as well so I'll let use know how that goes as well, any help is greatly appreciated in advance, thanks.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SKYLINE-R32-RB20DET-R33-RB25DET-R34-TURBO-GASKET-KIT-/180692473556?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a121c56d4

or

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TURBO-GASKET-KIT-SKYLINE-R32-RB20DET-R33-RB25DET-R34-/110598767531?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c03343ab

or

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TURBO-GASKET-KIT-SKYLINE-GTR-R32-R33-R34-RB26DETT-/120654815662?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c179661ae

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...