Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

More video to process. So more to come.

Ah no S14 love!!!

John PM me your address and I'll get your SD card back out to you.

ordering my new gopro today.

USA trip delayed so will pick up a Conture when I head back.

  • Replies 195
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

S14 love and Red Bus action come in cut 2 along with more video.

Unfortunately the pit lane camera was only used after the initial sessions, so I have nothing of the S14 on that camera.

That bank is much worse than the apron, thus the reason for using the apron.

There is the one one bump on the apron that make things very unpleasant. If that was fixed, it would be no worse that Winton or Sandown.

oops, didnt work

Australian Drifting Grand Prix BIG NEWS. Spoke with Bob Jane today about the event and he said that ADGP has given them a good enough reason to look at making the outside seating of the Thunderdome usable again. Lets hope it can become a reality for 2012!!! Will help solve the constraints we had with viewing. If you want to see thia happen click like and share this post.

Ye no using the other bank, it is 110% unsafe to be used, hence we are down on the apron area, which isnt actually "that" bad. Just requires a sensible use of right pedal

Good news RE: Venue improvements, very good :D

Ye no using the other bank, it is 110% unsafe to be used, hence we are down on the apron area, which isnt actually "that" bad. Just requires a sensible use of right pedal

I took the inside line and it tried to rip the steering wheel out of my hands and my P/S pump was working so bloody hard that it was overflowing the resevoir. It was awesome :)

^ Ye I was holding nicely around that corner, the bump unsettled me a bit harder than you guys on semis who had the extra grip to turn in.

I ended up having to stab the brakes a little just before the bump, so when i got to the other side it was settled and turned in sweet :)

Ended up with a 54.62

http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results.cgi?25/09/2011.CPTD.S4

Only .75s behind the Tech Sport EVO X. Very happy with the result. Vids are being loaded as I'm typing. I'll link it up soon.

what sort of power was the techsport evo making?

Read this thread and just had a meeting with a prominent race event organiser and passed on what was said in this thread. He still seems to be in contact with Calder Park owner Bob Jane his son and associates. Probably turn into nothing but it guess it doesn't hurt to pass on constructive critisim from the public.

Oh I've just realised...

I dont have my esky!

Anyone happen to pick up a green one with a white lid?

I was 100% positive i put it on the back seat and currently it is not anywhere to be found >_<

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
    • To drain the Intake Heat Exchanger, there is a crappy drain plug in front of the driver's side front tyre: You should use the largest headed phillips screwdriver you had, and in my case I needed vice grips on the hose above as the plug was tight (tighter than it needed to be, since it has an o-ring seal).  After you have a tray down and open the drain, open the intake heat exchanger reservoir cap (drivers side one) and you should get a couple of litres of coolant To get to the radiator, you need to remove the plastic engine undertray. It is held on with a series of 10mm headed bolts and some clips. For the radiator, there is another type of crappy drain (kind of like a plastic banjo bolt) and you should attach a length of hose to direct the stream of coolant per this pic (otherwise the coolant hits the rad support and goes everywhere). The drain is on the rear of the radiator on the driver's side and a bit hard to find. Put a big tray or bucket down (5l won't be enough) and slowly unscrew the fitting by hand. You only want to remove it far enough for coolant to flow, it you unscrew it right out the whole fitting and direction pipe will come off and you will get a coolant bath (yum!). Undo the radiator reservoir cap and it should empty about 8l
    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You also need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator so you will need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. 2 other tools that really help dealing with coolant lines and spring clamps are Bent Needle Nose pliers Hose pliers Between them they will reduce the frustration (and injury) potential by about 1000% Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
×
×
  • Create New...