Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok ok enough talk boy SR's with 3076's in my 3071 thread for RB's :spank: lol

Started on re piping my cooler pipework today as i mentioned i wanted to remove the factory cross over pipe and shorten my pipework uo a bit so heres what i knocked up in couple of hours this afternoon :thumbsup:

Cheers scotty yeah thats a must do buddy dont want anymore boost leaks or dramas and yeah gotta pop the pipe off to fill up the oil cos my line runs straight over the top of the filler cap lol but i put the joiner in it there so its 2 hose clamps and shes away and it will make spark plugs a piece of piss too which is a bonus too :thumbsup:

Looks good Mick_o. Now to finish the welding. Are you running a bead around the pipe ends?

Will you have to disconect the pipe to fill the oil though? Not a big deal I guess. :thumbsup:

I am gunna measure up the old setup and see how long it is and measure my new setup cos i reckon ive made the run at least 300mm MINIMUM shorter than previous pipe route hope it improves throttle response a lil bit

if you used a funnel i reckon you could top up the oil without removing the pipe, if your lazy :thumbsup:

myne sits in a similar position to wolverines, but hard down on the cap due to being a 30, the silicone joiners have enough flex in them to simply pull it out of the way whilst undoing the cap.

Ok so i finished making up my cooler pipework today had to fabricate my own bends which im not a fan of as its shit loads more welding lol So heres a load of pics of my work :thumbsup:

Im looking start doing more fabrication work so if anybody out there likes my work shoot me a PM for some custom work :whistling:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
    • Trailer got new mudguards to accommodate the new wheels Lightweight ally Painted, stickered and done ✅ 👌  
    • Did you hit up the search function? R33 and greddy and cable returns this thread with some options.   https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358214-rb25-throttle-body/
×
×
  • Create New...