Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just got back from the Liberty club dyno day at Edge Motorworks, i'm buggered after strapping 23 awd cars down to the dyno but what a great day.

Anyway, my winning result was 341.1kw at around 23psi, just shy of the 350kw goal. Cihan (my tuner) decided not to push it further as the compressor was out of flow again and he doesn't want to see me brake it for no reason. Very happy with the result though, the car is unbelievable to drive and it's a stupidly responsive turbo for the power output. Also good to hear that the Edge dyno is comparable in readings to many of the other local tuning shops.

Shame I didn't get the torque graph, you can plainly see the compressor flow dropping off as efficiency goes out the window.

post-63525-0-78255600-1336227758_thumb.jpg

Of course mate, the closest contender retired as his Cosworth 30k engine was running stoich at wot. :)

Why are the manifolds an issue Zebra? HKS thought they were good enough for their 350z 3037 kits...

I would love to design some killer manifolds one day but I may have to go twins and rwd before then. The box can't handle much more torque than i'm currently throwing at it, Kewish Auto said it MAY handle 250kw if i'm lucky. lol. Looks like i'm just a lucky f*kr. ;)

True it is only a 3071, so I guess it's pretty much at its limit already, manifolds won't yield much benefit without more turbo..running the sugar juice is no doubt aiding alot in keeping it cool anyway..

So front mount twins it is then :banana:

If anything Scotty, it'd be the crossover pipe to mod first IMO.

Comparing the one in the HKS kit to the stock item showed some differences- mainly being the stock one has a big restriction from a press bend.

If you look at the pipes area it's still much bigger than the turbo nozzle so I doubt it would make much difference, It may perhaps keep the gas speed up if anything, I think the crossover pipe is too big.

Scotty what rev are you at when you hit 200kph? IE when the dyno run ends?

The graph shows boost threshold as between 130 and 150kph. So if you were at 6000rpm @ 200kph, your boost threshold is after 4000rpm. If you were revving it harder, your threshold is also higher.. Say it was revving to 7500, your talking about a minimum of 5500rpm for full boost (on that graph).

Is that a misrepresentation of the dyno or is it not as responsive as I had imagined? Mick's is on a lot sooner I believe.

Its a little hard to guess as the dyno has a 200kph speed restriction and I have no idea what revs it was actually at when it hit that (Cihan may know). There was still more revs left in it though, I run a 7300 soft limit.

Also, the ramp is misrepresented as he cant stomp on the pedal, if the car isn't doing over 80kph and he doesn't ease the throttle on it will kick down into 3rd, and that isn't good at all. :blink:

Boost hits hard at around 4k on the street just to give you an idea, but there is still plenty of power at 3500, perhaps 200kw? Just guessing. I wish I knew how to drive the Fcon, I could log it for you.

Ahh I c.

I think there is a way to lock them into gear, like you can lock the torque converter. I'm no expert though, and that does provide some decent insight either way.

Bloody auto's! lol.

That run was with the converter locked but you can't lock it in gear as far as I know, perhaps I can cut the CAN line so it doesn't get the kickdown signal?

That said, what manual box would handle this torque for an extended time (not that I could fit one), and how much would a suitable clutch cost me? I guess its doing pretty well for the soggy box it used to be...

I think I read status saying to use a manual clutch and fly with the auto box to increase durability. You only need to use the clutch to take off.

If you want a tough 5 speed box you should look at the R154 (5 speed, under 2k) or V160 (6 speed and very expensive) boxes. Theres a company called dellow engineering who can make a bell to suit that box from anything. The R154 specifically is really short and can be fitted with a remote shifter, so you can fit it in just about anything. It is pretty fat tho, but It cant honestly shadow the auto... Or atleast I hope.

They can hold the power, no worries. Like I said also easy to work with coz of how short it is and the remote shifter. Cant comment beyond a guesstimate on the price of a clutch, I dare say the better part of a grand as a starting point.

  • 3 weeks later...

Mick was kind enough to hand over the keys yesterday for a drive around the block, then around the corner and a bit further haha.

Can't believe how well it goes for the money spent (eg stock motor still, still OEM plenum etc).

Sure it's fun with your foot down but it's surprisingly tractable just cruising around!!! This car does not need big revs to move along. You can change gear at 3000rpm and it's moving along easily at traffic speeds for example. Of course when you want to go quick it's not long at all till meaningful boost and off you go

Plus it has to be the cleanest 33GTST I've seen in quite some time.

Don't change a thing Mick.....well maybe the RB30 bottom end haha

Mick was kind enough to hand over the keys yesterday for a drive around the block, then around the corner and a bit further haha.

Can't believe how well it goes for the money spent (eg stock motor still, still OEM plenum etc).

Sure it's fun with your foot down but it's surprisingly tractable just cruising around!!! This car does not need big revs to move along. You can change gear at 3000rpm and it's moving along easily at traffic speeds for example. Of course when you want to go quick it's not long at all till meaningful boost and off you go

Plus it has to be the cleanest 33GTST I've seen in quite some time.

Don't change a thing Mick.....well maybe the RB30 bottom end haha

Thanks for the kind words Steve O think i will change the brakes soon though haha!

As for the 3.0 bottom end.................

Im writing to Santa bout that because i have been a good boy this year so see how i go huh? :P

It was very quiet actually. The only screech was the nangkang's turning :D

Those nangas are noisey bastards but thats Steves fault ;) I have the right filler wire for those pipes at the workshop and a good plan of attack too mate :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...