Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi there I have a r34 GTT, and I want it make more power, I want to know what work needs to be done for me to achieve 300rwkw safely, also what are some realiable tuners in melbourne, who wont rip me off unnecessarily.

My current mods are:

  • K&N Pod Filter
  • Greddy EBC
  • Xforce 3" turbo back exhaust
  • Splitfire coils
  • cushion button clutch
  • Fuel pump.

any advise or help will be greatly appriciated.

thanks guys and girls

nush

post-61184-0-07363000-1314934898_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376003-300kw-r34-gtt-advise/
Share on other sites

you will need a bigger turbo (hypergear hiflow/3071 or 3076R - may need custom manifold & ext gate depending on turbo choice), Z32 AFM, bigger injectors (440cc or bigger), tuneable ECU (nistune/PFC/Haltech etc) & FMIC.

speak to Trent @ status/chequered tuning, and he can sort all this out for you, drive in & drive out a happy customer :)

^ u do not need cam gears on a RB25 NEO however tomei pon cams are a good optional extra!

i just have a comment on the dump pipe, i have a 3inch xforce dump and was told it wasnt a very good one and that replacing it would be a good idea,

what do others think here, personally i think xforce is shit and should be thrown in the bin, it looks small and narrow from my point of view,

  • 3 weeks later...

What is the biggest low mount turbo that would fit? Gt30?

Settle for 260-270rwkw with a GCG hi-flow of your stock turbo.

Will pull to 7500rpm unlike the cheaper options which fall off torque hard in upper RPM due to housings.

That way you'll save the rebuild and the 7-10k just for an extra 20-30rwkw.

Just with all the other mods you'll spend near on 10k as it is. Also remember brakes/suspension/tyres/diff really needing good attention to get the power down to the ground etc. There is a good 5-6k just in that alone without any power mods at all to get the car solid.

300rwkw, with a built motor (plus overall car support) is a 20k round trip

Settle for 260-270rwkw with a GCG hi-flow of your stock turbo.

Will pull to 7500rpm unlike the cheaper options which fall off torque hard in upper RPM due to housings.

That way you'll save the rebuild and the 7-10k just for an extra 20-30rwkw.

Just with all the other mods you'll spend near on 10k as it is. Also remember brakes/suspension/tyres/diff really needing good attention to get the power down to the ground etc. There is a good 5-6k just in that alone without any power mods at all to get the car solid.

300rwkw, with a built motor (plus overall car support) is a 20k round trip

Thanks for the advice man, you really put some thought into this, yer i will defenitly be weighing out my options before making final decisions, thanks again :yes:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
×
×
  • Create New...