Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am dismantling my R33 GTR and selling everything. As i have a wedding and a house to pay for. Some of the parts are brand new still have been installed but never used, and majority of the other parts have done about 5000-10000kms on them. All these parts are genuine, no fake bullshit here and i don't not have time for time wasters or dreamers otherwise you will be getting told to F#*k off real quick. Here's a quick list for the moment as i would take me days to write out i you wanna see pics just click on the link on my Sig to see everything.

2002 R34 N1 Nur Crate Engine has done 25,000kms since new (done 10,000kms standard setup and 15,000kms with aftermarket parts fitted) and has the following goodies:

- Ross Tuffbond Metal Jacket Harmonic Balancer

-Hi Octane Extended Sump

-Tomei Timing Belt

-Tomei Adjustable Cam Gears

-Tomei 260 Degree x 9.15mm Lift Cams

-Mines Cam Cover Baffles

-Spool Head Oil Drain Kit

P.S this is just the engine for sale no intake or exhaust comes with it.

Asking $10,000

- Series 3 R33 GTR Xenon Lights (Used slightly look new still)

Asking $1900

-Genuine Abflug Carbon Rear Diffuser

Asking $800

-R33 GTR Spoiler with Nismo Carbon End Caps and Genuine Autoselect Carbon Devil Chibi Wing Blade

Asking $800

-Apexi Power FC DJetro with Hand Controller and FC Datalogit Tuning Gear

Asking $1200

-4 Hankook Ventus RS-3 Tire 285/35R18 (Brand New)

Asking $1500

-ARC Airbox and Full HKS Piping Kit Intake (Good Condition)

Asking $1500

-Gram Lights 57F Pro Titanium Lip Rims 18x10 +20 with Tires (In Very Good Condition)

Asking $3000.

-Sunline Racing GT Spec Titanium Front Pipe (Brand New Never Used)

Asking-$1400

front_pype_titan.jpg

-Fujimura Auto Rocker Dancer Titanium Strut Brace (Brand New Never Used)

Asking $900

nengun-0000-02-fujimuraauto-rocket_dancer_-_all_titanium_tower_bar.png

-Cusco Tension Rod Bar (Brand New Never Been Used)

Asking $90

nengun-0531-00-cusco-tension_rod_bar.jpg

That's is all for now but visit my tread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/280567-nur33-soon-to-be-a-time-attack-weapon/ and if there is anything you want just message me.

Cheers

Benny

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376460-dismantling-my-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...