Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I pulled off my old intake to measure up a newer new one. Attached are the pics below. The bends are two roughly 45 degree bends with some angling done to face the side of the car. Since these are two 45 degree straight cuts, will this pose an issue? I see some people using curvy bends while mine is a sharper bend. Ive attached some pics so you can see how it looks. It was awesome too, the pringles container is exactly 3" awesome piece of tube to have to measure up some piping, easy to cut, tape together and measure!

Anyway, after I measured it and put the car back together with the old pipe, 3 times today my car switch off when clutching in after coming on boost. To ensure I am on the right page, is this an indication of boost leak or a vacuum leak? If it was a leak under boost, I would be blowing smoke because I am not breathing enough air. But it stalls after clutching in... I do not run an atmo BOV and my current intake pipe never had any recirc issues where the BOV line affected the AFM(its facing the turbo on the return and is after a bend. I haven't pulled it apart again but everything looks tight. The car was not stalling before.... It was also not lean popping. Now it appears when I am on idle and try to hold say 2500rpm in neutral, it will splutter and pop. This is NOT evident when driving but when I clutch in and the engine revs down to idle it splutters. Could all these problems be related to a vacuum leak? I didn't have time to check it out as I just got back from work.

I hope my fuel pump isn't failing again. I am sick of going into that damn tank. I can hear it priming and under full boost the car drives brilliantly. It seems just under tiny tiny load(like the throttle JUST touched) when cruising, and more evident when in neutral.

In the pictures, the metal bottom of the pringles tube is facing the turbo.

post-68383-0-94155300-1316095939_thumb.jpg

post-68383-0-96239200-1316095963_thumb.jpg

post-68383-0-93085000-1316095975_thumb.jpg

post-68383-0-30136400-1316095989_thumb.jpg

post-68383-0-85475700-1316096000_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 122
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

What fuel pump did u fit again? Wasnt it a second hand gtr pump?

Maybe its starting to fail, it is a bit weird that its only happening since u made a new intake pipe.

Try earthing the fuel pump in the boot so that its not a variable earth. This may fix the lean pop issue at idle.

I see nothing wrong with the intake design itself as i run one with a 90 degree and 45 degree bend with no problem.

Why didnt you just put a decent new pump rathet then mucking around with 2nd hanf parts that are just as old.

I see nothing wrong with the intake design itself as i run one with a 90 degree and 45 degree bend with no problem.

Why didnt you just put a decent new pump rathet then mucking around with 2nd hanf parts that are just as old.

I needed a pump asap. I ordered a 040 new but it took its time to come so I found a wrecker selling the gtr pump on saturday. I needed the car asap. I'll ground it today and see how she goes. I'll then adjust my intake setup double check for leaks then test the stalling. Luckily I'm on last quarter fuel.

I'll be fitting the fuel pump in tonight if I can. Grounding this pump didn't fix it and it seems I'm stalling after boost and clutching in. I've even blanked off my bov incase I was having recirc issues and no luck. Also noticed my fuel cap was so pressurised it was hissing when closed... How do you pin point a intake leak?

the stock intake piping is accordian style to avoid reversion over the AFM hotwire signal

you might find using prefectly curved pipework with a smooth edge introduces reversion which makes the AFM tell the ECU you have whacko air flow meter load, thus it stalls

this is common when people change their intake pipe to nice smooth shiny finish pipework (like what you are doing)

I have never had a customer complain of reversion with one of my intakes, as long as the bov points towards the compressor the two bends should stop any further reversion. I do use lobster bends though which may help a little.

the stock intake piping is accordian style to avoid reversion over the AFM hotwire signal

you might find using prefectly curved pipework with a smooth edge introduces reversion which makes the AFM tell the ECU you have whacko air flow meter load, thus it stalls

this is common when people change their intake pipe to nice smooth shiny finish pipework (like what you are doing)

Bullshit.

Those pipes are smooth but they do have some crazy angel on the return pipes., my old pipe on my old car just wasn't working. this pipe was fine. it probably isn't reversion because I did disable the bov. It seems like a leak somewhere. Anyhow I am installing a 040 now. Lets see how we go.

I have never had a customer complain of reversion with one of my intakes, as long as the bov points towards the compressor the two bends should stop any further reversion.

I think this is the key reason for reversion.

Woman driving lol.

Sarge are you off work today? I dont mind taking a look for you, am in Penshurst.

This would be very appreciated. Are you free this sunday? I can bring it to you then as I need help because I just fitted the new fuel pump and no luck. Issue seems evident (the popping issue) after the engine is above 45c. new spark plugs go in tomorrow as well as examining more vacuum lines

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
    • That's some really horrible design with the way it's cut/shaped! Is there much damage to the box that failed in? IE, new fork and you can go again, or is it a total rebuild again? Id be trying to build that piece from scratch, and getting some reliefs added in the corner to hopefully stop breakage, and then swapping boxes ASAP, and then doing the same to the currently good working box. I'm assuming hard shifts have not been friendly to it!
×
×
  • Create New...