Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I pulled off my old intake to measure up a newer new one. Attached are the pics below. The bends are two roughly 45 degree bends with some angling done to face the side of the car. Since these are two 45 degree straight cuts, will this pose an issue? I see some people using curvy bends while mine is a sharper bend. Ive attached some pics so you can see how it looks. It was awesome too, the pringles container is exactly 3" awesome piece of tube to have to measure up some piping, easy to cut, tape together and measure!

Anyway, after I measured it and put the car back together with the old pipe, 3 times today my car switch off when clutching in after coming on boost. To ensure I am on the right page, is this an indication of boost leak or a vacuum leak? If it was a leak under boost, I would be blowing smoke because I am not breathing enough air. But it stalls after clutching in... I do not run an atmo BOV and my current intake pipe never had any recirc issues where the BOV line affected the AFM(its facing the turbo on the return and is after a bend. I haven't pulled it apart again but everything looks tight. The car was not stalling before.... It was also not lean popping. Now it appears when I am on idle and try to hold say 2500rpm in neutral, it will splutter and pop. This is NOT evident when driving but when I clutch in and the engine revs down to idle it splutters. Could all these problems be related to a vacuum leak? I didn't have time to check it out as I just got back from work.

I hope my fuel pump isn't failing again. I am sick of going into that damn tank. I can hear it priming and under full boost the car drives brilliantly. It seems just under tiny tiny load(like the throttle JUST touched) when cruising, and more evident when in neutral.

In the pictures, the metal bottom of the pringles tube is facing the turbo.

post-68383-0-94155300-1316095939_thumb.jpg

post-68383-0-96239200-1316095963_thumb.jpg

post-68383-0-93085000-1316095975_thumb.jpg

post-68383-0-30136400-1316095989_thumb.jpg

post-68383-0-85475700-1316096000_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 122
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

What fuel pump did u fit again? Wasnt it a second hand gtr pump?

Maybe its starting to fail, it is a bit weird that its only happening since u made a new intake pipe.

Try earthing the fuel pump in the boot so that its not a variable earth. This may fix the lean pop issue at idle.

I see nothing wrong with the intake design itself as i run one with a 90 degree and 45 degree bend with no problem.

Why didnt you just put a decent new pump rathet then mucking around with 2nd hanf parts that are just as old.

  On 15/09/2011 at 9:19 PM, boostn0199 said:

I see nothing wrong with the intake design itself as i run one with a 90 degree and 45 degree bend with no problem.

Why didnt you just put a decent new pump rathet then mucking around with 2nd hanf parts that are just as old.

I needed a pump asap. I ordered a 040 new but it took its time to come so I found a wrecker selling the gtr pump on saturday. I needed the car asap. I'll ground it today and see how she goes. I'll then adjust my intake setup double check for leaks then test the stalling. Luckily I'm on last quarter fuel.

I'll be fitting the fuel pump in tonight if I can. Grounding this pump didn't fix it and it seems I'm stalling after boost and clutching in. I've even blanked off my bov incase I was having recirc issues and no luck. Also noticed my fuel cap was so pressurised it was hissing when closed... How do you pin point a intake leak?

the stock intake piping is accordian style to avoid reversion over the AFM hotwire signal

you might find using prefectly curved pipework with a smooth edge introduces reversion which makes the AFM tell the ECU you have whacko air flow meter load, thus it stalls

this is common when people change their intake pipe to nice smooth shiny finish pipework (like what you are doing)

I have never had a customer complain of reversion with one of my intakes, as long as the bov points towards the compressor the two bends should stop any further reversion. I do use lobster bends though which may help a little.

  On 16/09/2011 at 3:28 AM, paulr33 said:

the stock intake piping is accordian style to avoid reversion over the AFM hotwire signal

you might find using prefectly curved pipework with a smooth edge introduces reversion which makes the AFM tell the ECU you have whacko air flow meter load, thus it stalls

this is common when people change their intake pipe to nice smooth shiny finish pipework (like what you are doing)

Bullshit.

Those pipes are smooth but they do have some crazy angel on the return pipes., my old pipe on my old car just wasn't working. this pipe was fine. it probably isn't reversion because I did disable the bov. It seems like a leak somewhere. Anyhow I am installing a 040 now. Lets see how we go.

  On 16/09/2011 at 4:54 AM, scotty nm35 said:

I have never had a customer complain of reversion with one of my intakes, as long as the bov points towards the compressor the two bends should stop any further reversion.

I think this is the key reason for reversion.

  On 16/09/2011 at 5:44 AM, GTScotT said:

Woman driving lol.

Sarge are you off work today? I dont mind taking a look for you, am in Penshurst.

This would be very appreciated. Are you free this sunday? I can bring it to you then as I need help because I just fitted the new fuel pump and no luck. Issue seems evident (the popping issue) after the engine is above 45c. new spark plugs go in tomorrow as well as examining more vacuum lines

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
    • Being a race car, and being in the era of the Arduino, one would think it would take little effort to build a controller to do the spraying based on a real physical measurment. Waaaaay back in the dim dark AS days, JE "designed" (as in, he had help) a microcontroller based intercooler spray system. It watched the difference between a temp sensor stuck on the core and one in the free air in front of the cooler, and if the temperature difference exceeded a (settable) threshold, it would activate the sprays. Thus, it only ran water when there was an actual need for water. If you stop to think about the actual physical things that are going on in that stack of coolers, there's probably at least a couple of triggering conditions one could come up with, and one could probably even run one pump with more than one solenoid valve, to allow water to be placed where it is needed, or at all points at once (if it is needed at all points). We're in the age of science baby. But.... I suspect that intercooler water sprays are on the forbidden list in most circuit classes, no? So only good for Targa type stuff?
    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
    • Do you have any before and after photos? That's $200 just for the hydro blasting?
×
×
  • Create New...