Jump to content
SAU Community

Godzilla Motorsport 7.60 @ 180Mph

Willo

By Willo,
in Motorsport Discussion & Builds

 Share

Recommended Posts

zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

Mark has run the Godzilla Motorsport R32 at Jamboree at 7.60 @ 180mph making it the second quickest in the world.

Come a long way!

I remember a few years ago watching it do a mid 8 to set the aus record...was 8.67 or 8.4 something...was too long ago...and i was faily busy staging behind it

Lithium Grand Master

Lithium

Posted
Posted

Awesome work Godzilla MS, seriously close now!!

zebra- Record is 7.56 @ 184mph, HT lowered it slightly a couple of months ago and sooner or later hopefully will pull everything together in one run :)

Lithium Grand Master

Lithium

Posted
Posted

If it were that easy, one or the other of the two guys will have already done it.... I know HT have the power available (remember they've gone >190mph on occasions - including the famed 7.59 @ 191mph record breaking 500+m run they did in 2006) and I am sure Godzilla do too, its the whole using it effectively which seems diabolical with these cars and both teams are in a class of their own in terms of what they've achieved so far... and without changing things so much that so long as they're sticking to the remaining fundamental elements which make them a GTR at heart (ie, RB/IRS/AWD) I can't see any smashing going on so much as whittling down.

zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

If it were that easy, one or the other of the two guys will have already done it.... I know HT have the power available (remember they've gone >190mph on occasions - including the famed 7.59 @ 191mph record breaking 500+m run they did in 2006) and I am sure Godzilla do too, its the whole using it effectively which seems diabolical with these cars and both teams are in a class of their own in terms of what they've achieved so far... and without changing things so much that so long as they're sticking to the remaining fundamental elements which make them a GTR at heart (ie, RB/IRS/AWD) I can't see any smashing going on so much as whittling down.

Oh I agree that 4wd big power drag cars are near impossible to drive straight.

Which the power they have they would be deep into the 6's in a live axle rwd tube chassis.

So running mid 7's with basically a factory suspension setup is hugely impressive.

Still though, one perfect run would drop a tenth or two..which at these times is "smashed" in my book

Lithium Grand Master

Lithium

Posted
Posted

Ah yep, fair call - in that case, it seems both cars have it in them at this stage to nudge that 7.56... its unbelieveable that the 7.6 mark has been broken by two cars, given how long it took to beat HKS' old time. We must be almost due to hit the 7.4, I had really hoped HT would do it at Jamboree given they've shown everything (first half track time, and trap speed) required to do so - now it all needs to happen in one run.

Good to see Godzilla finally basically shoulder to shoulder now, this should make things more interesting :)

GodzillaMotorsport Enthusiast

GodzillaMotorsport

Posted
Posted

thanks for the comments guys...

big thanks to everone over the years who have helped me at the track at hundreds of test n tunes...

it was a great pass to 1/2 track 4.92 at 147.8mph and fell over prob because of the big headwing of prob 6 to 10 mph

we usually put on 36 to 38 mph from 1/2 track ...

at the boost levels we run with no intercooler it is very difficult to keep it 100% from 1/2 track on ....

beating the old hks r33 gtr time of 7.67 was a great feeling !!!!also we are the fastest black 2.6 gtr in the world . ha ha :)

here is the video

we were going to leave the car alone for a while and finish the new r35 gtr pro rwd race car but being so close to reece its hard ;)

cheers , mark

I would love to see a side by side mide 7 by these cars

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Lithium Grand Master

Lithium

Posted
Posted

When is the next outing? I feel this is the season for one of you fellas to nudge the 7.4s - when the Pro cars both you (Godzilla lads) and Heat Treatments emerge I have a sinking feeling they will start getting a lot more interesting and the GTRs might start gathering cobwebs :(

On that note, how soon before the R35 emerges? And will it be doing some time with RB power?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • MBS206
      Cas issue

      By MBS206 · Posted

      It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...