Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

post-12712-0-35359000-1332670111_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-03952800-1332670107_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-83021100-1332670099_thumb.jpg

So just a few things like electrical, brake master, clutch master, intake and exhaust to go.

No spark plugs fitted as I cranked it over to get oil pressure up, all good.

Probably start it tomorrow....

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

car looked MINT man, must of felt good to finaly have it back on the road :)

Yeah man thanks. Sorry I didn't even recognise you yesterday... otherwise I would had said hello lol.

You should had come over and said g'day

dam this thing looks beautiful !! vids please :)

Thanks.

I'll have to post a video later.

Latest photos from Putty

latestk.jpg[

latest2.jpg

latest3.jpg

Big thanks to Sean who dedicated most of his day/night on getting this car up and running.

It's was convenient that he is my flat mate too, but still it was time out of his weekends

he also saved me big $$$$ and in the end got great results.

looks awsome massive difference and I love the colour on the cam covers, but do your car a favour and remove the air spliter from the radiator as all it does is redirects the air from the top hole between your grill and bonnet away from the radiator

looks awsome massive difference and I love the colour on the cam covers, but do your car a favour and remove the air spliter from the radiator as all it does is redirects the air from the top hole between your grill and bonnet away from the radiator

The Air splitter sits in align with the top of the centre grill?

I don't have the air condenser between the intercooler and radiator anyway to worry about air flow to radiator.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...