Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

2 hours ago, Hadouken said:

3"tbe
1300 IDs
DW300
274 cams
Flex fuel
Standard turbo
Standard ecu

Whiteline sway bars
MCA XRs
DBA5000 front DBA4000 rear
Forza FP3 pads

I could only get 2 sessions in at Wakefield before I destroyed one of the NT01s. Still lots of time to be made up.

I want to get into the 1'05s lol.

Next change is to try out the nankang ar1 tyres.

This will be my first step away from a 100 tw tyre.

 

that's so good from such a simple set up and I bet you don't worry about it dying like you did with the gtr either! 

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I don't know enough about stock evo shifter setups to know if that's legit or not, if so, super cool :D

What kit did you buy? Grab me for one my Silvia thanks!



 

Edited by ActionDan
  • 5 weeks later...

"Jacques". That explains so much lol

That tyre squeal, where they still gripping at that point or was it under steering from the moment you hear the squeal. I ask as some tyres are just noisy but still hold on. 

I forgot what good response looks like lol
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah ok. I seem to be mixing it like everyone else does so not sure what's happening. Will experiment with it more.
    • Depends on what you mean by OK. First up, was this done cold or hot? Are they reasonably consistent? Yes, they are reasonably consistent. Could be better. But unless it has had a build at some point, it is a ~30 year old engine and you'd expect some variation. Some of the difference could also be in user technique Is it good compression? Well....not numerically, no. New they were >160 psi. The one at 140 would be fine, in that context. If they were all ~140, you'd be reasonably happy. But the one that is @120 is twice as far down from the original numbers as the one @ 140. But.. (again)... technique can play a part in the absolute magnitude of these numbers, and the quality/state of repair/accuracy of the pressure gauge is not known. In the context of the above, the compression tester that was used last on my car is regularly compared to a known good pressure gauge. Not calibrated, exactly, but compared to a reference instrument that is not used for any other purpose, so cops no abuse. So we can trust the measurements off that tester. But another tester in the same workshop wasn't being compared against the standard and was reading a good 30ish psi lower. When you're reading 100 psu but the engine is really doing 130, you can make bad decisions.
    • More likely from tiny bubbles in the filler/putty. Maybe be less aggressive when mixing it. Perhaps invest in a vacuum chamber to pull the air bubbles out?** **I don't know if this is a thing for body filler. I see hardcore epoxy makers degassing their mixed resin on the regular.
    • IIRC, the speedo on these is fed from the sensor in/on the snout of the diff.
    • They were. I bought the AWD for experimenting but racing it would disqualify or disadvantage me from a few race classes. Def getting a FWD for racing.
×
×
  • Create New...