Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

csb bro Did he give his camry a boot?

We're you the skyrine that was driving behind me on springvale road when we were all heading home and I turned off a bit after Princes Hwy Saturday night?

yeah that was me. You turned off springy road. My friend lives on that street. I was going up to FTG road.

why u ask?

So Ex demo car 7K saving + 1 month earlier v New car

How much do they go for 2nd hand? Aren't ex-demo's generally thrashed? Correct me if Im wrong.

Also make sure the 'new car' price is the driveaway price, and does not have other hidden charges.

Do you have alot of time off work during the x-mas period and thats why you want it before then?

Not entirely sure on full price but they are around 70 new. Yeh I duno about ex demos that's why I'm asking for advice :P but I guess your right they have probably been thrashed.

No time off work until jan but yeh I just want one :P I think I'll just talk to a few dealers see what they say see if I can find a honest salesman if they exist

you put a brake line clamp on the soft line near the caliper to stop air get in/oil getting out, less of the system will need rebleeding when you reattach the calipers.

post-17545-0-61789000-1320661243_thumb.jpg

had a go at 1 of the rears top hose is a bolt bottom one there's nothing couldn't figure out how to pull it off so i gave up lol. will try again tomorrow...

haha yes I am winnar.. all you Westies/Northsiders = FAIL

Im using 10W40 Motul Turbolight in both cars atm and I think its burning off like a mutha :< GRR

as soon as I figure out htf to get the oil filter off the S15 (kjghgfhjgff!!).. I'm gonna change it.. again :<

I think the 8100 used to be better but then thats 0W40! Have been told at Nats that Turbolight is like water..

Agreed, Turbolight 10W40 was like water. Used to disappear on my SR20DET and RB25DET, both of which were healthy engines (the SR reasonably stressed and the RB babied but getting on in km's.) Wouldn't ever use it again. Both my SR and RB loved Penrite Semi Synthetic 15W60, both ran quieter, smoother, idled better, temps and pressures remained better. And you would drain basically what you put into it, no dissapearing acts here. I'd definitely use it again on a highly stressed or slightly older engine. Tried running the Cube on it, engines too young and tolerances are too good so it was far too heavy and consequently made the engine noisy and sluggish. It would also have trouble starting on a cold morning, splutter and carry on like a bitch. Switched to Penrite Synthetic 5W60 and it runs like a dream. Quiet, revs better, starts instantly.

Amazing how much a different oil effects the way a car runs. No harm in trying a different oil for a short period to see what works for you.

Edited by llama_au

Agreed, Turbolight 10W40 was like water. Used to disappear on my SR20DET and RB25DET, both of which were healthy engines (the SR reasonably stressed and the RB babied but getting on in km's.) Wouldn't ever use it again. Both my SR and RB loved Penrite Semi Synthetic 15W60, both ran quieter, smoother, idled better, temps and pressures remained better. And you would drain basically what you put into it, no dissapearing acts here. I'd definitely use it again on a highly stressed or slightly older engine. Tried running the Cube on it, engines too young and tolerances are too good so it was far too heavy and consequently made the engine noisy and sluggish. It would also have trouble starting on a cold morning, splutter and carry on like a bitch. Switched to Penrite Synthetic 5W60 and it runs like a dream. Quiet, revs better, starts instantly.

Amazing how much a different oil effects the way a car runs. No harm in trying a different oil for a short period to see what works for you.

how much oil would you go through in the sr out of curiosity?

yeah that was me. You turned off springy road. My friend lives on that street. I was going up to FTG road.

why u ask?

Thought it was you but wasn't sure :D

Not entirely sure on full price but they are around 70 new. Yeh I duno about ex demos that's why I'm asking for advice :P but I guess your right they have probably been thrashed.

No time off work until jan but yeh I just want one :P I think I'll just talk to a few dealers see what they say see if I can find a honest salesman if they exist

Yeah talk to the dealers but don't get sucked in on the day. Some of the car dealers are pretty full on...

Tony, you an accountant? need some tax/claiming shit advice

Not just any Accountant, the best. Your welcome to come into my boardroom office, and we can sit around drinking bourbon liek a baws.

how much oil would you go through in the sr out of curiosity?

With Turbolight - if I ever left as long as 5,000km and didn't top it up between changes (think I only did that once) I lost nearly 2L. Considering that's more than half the SR's capacity that's terrible. And it never noticeably burnt it so yeah...needless to say I started checking the oil more and eventually decided the oil just didn't suit my car. My ex's SR S15 was exactly the same, though his seemed to disappear even quicker.

With Penrite you'd nearly drain as much as you put in.

As I mentioned my RB lost Turbolight as well (although not quite as much), but again, not suited to that engine. Tappets were very noisy running Turbolight.

Too many bad experiences with Turbolight in my corner.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...