Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i agree, but id still want something like that lmao

dudes, my rb20 turbo off my dead engine, stuck my singer into the intake where the impeller is and felt an edge, like its been machined, this normal? pat?

i agree, but id still want something like that lmao

dudes, my rb20 turbo off my dead engine, stuck my singer into the intake where the impeller is and felt an edge, like its been machined, this normal? pat?

You stuck your what into the intake? Wait... I don't want to know the answer to that haha

No idea, a hi flow rb20 turbo would only get you 200kw. Although responsive it would give the same power as a stock rb25 turbo.

Had a hiflow rb20 turbo but didn't bother fitting it, rebuilt a hks2530 instead

would want to make a responsive 320kw on low boost for street and 400+ on high boost for track later down the track.

With the amount of attention to detail and work which you are putting into the car, the last thing you want to do is slam it into the wall because of an oil spill on the track (happened to my friends restoration car)

You decide now; is it a track hack with no care for panels or a Clean streeter? The choice you make now will save you heartache in the future.

would want to make a responsive 320kw on low boost for street and 400+ on high boost for track later down the track.

lol wrong way round mate... your track tune is meant to be the one with LESS power

try driving 300 before you decide on 400 lol

lol true... 3oo at the rears is one hell of a drive in a 1.3 tonne car that knowing moh will be low and stiff.

dont get me wrong, i LOVE my car and it's 3oo rwkw however it's not something you need lol.

i'd be happy with ~250 in a car that weight and you could wrangle a 20 to get that

driving a 3.0 with 300+ is basically just a controlled crash from the moment you touch the accelerator

With the amount of attention to detail and work which you are putting into the car, the last thing you want to do is slam it into the wall because of an oil spill on the track (happened to my friends restoration car)

You decide now; is it a track hack with no care for panels or a Clean streeter? The choice you make now will save you heartache in the future.

id probably cry if i crashed it...

lol wrong way round mate... your track tune is meant to be the one with LESS power

try driving 300 before you decide on 400 lol

:/ what i dont even

i kinda want to continue the GTR look, and drop a 26 in it... dont want it to be a 4 door 32 thats just had guards put on, if you get what i mean

lol true... 3oo at the rears is one hell of a drive in a 1.3 tonne car that knowing moh will be low and stiff.

dont get me wrong, i LOVE my car and it's 3oo rwkw however it's not something you need lol.

i'd be happy with ~250 in a car that weight and you could wrangle a 20 to get that

driving a 3.0 with 300+ is basically just a controlled crash from the moment you touch the accelerator

im not going bellow legal on this..

id be happy with just a stock 26... but the 30, is more of a why not..

With the amount of attention to detail and work which you are putting into the car, the last thing you want to do is slam it into the wall because of an oil spill on the track (happened to my friends restoration car)

You decide now; is it a track hack with no care for panels or a Clean streeter? The choice you make now will save you heartache in the future.

Well said...

That's what I'm still deciding with my R33: track basher and let it go au naturale, or fix the hail damage with a full respray and keep it nice. Either way, my wallet loses.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...