Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah, lots of good reviews. 1.2k, can't complain. If i bought the specific ones for my civic (fork), it'd be 1.1k. But I'm running integra type r stuffs underneaths, so have to pay for that type R tax :[

That's the price you pay Honda fanboi lol

All coilovers look the same in the end anyway :P

Must admit loving my pedders coilovers so far

What do pedders charge for coils roughly?

Seems legit

1750, but fords have separate springs from shock on rear so dunno if that makes it cost more or what ever

pretty funny how my stock springs only saw like ~2000kms lol but this completely transformed the car to something more sporty feeling with a luxury side as well way more difference compared to getting them in my GTR

Just want an intercooler, exhaust, brembos and wider rims now! modding bug never stops..

like this (to make sense of it) not sure what brand this is though:

falconCoilover_02.jpg

1750, but fords have separate springs from shock on rear so dunno if that makes it cost more or what ever

pretty funny how my stock springs only saw like ~2000kms lol but this completely transformed the car to something more sporty feeling with a luxury side as well way more difference compared to getting them in my GTR

Just want an intercooler, exhaust, brembos and wider rims now! modding bug never stops..

like this (to make sense of it) not sure what brand this is though:

falconCoilover_02.jpg

Nah price won't affect the rear shocks being seperate, vdubs have seperate rears and price is same as normal coils

also, LOL

HAHAHA

Did you pop your motor? What's planned for it?

Yeah, from what Racepace figured out, piston 5 had a cracked head, making a loud knocking noise and loss of compression.

Wanted a standard rebuild, but Racepace justified how a forged will benefit in the long run and I totally understand.

spoke to jamie at garage cafe one of his pistons was knocking or something, he's getting it rebuilt (forgies) with -5s or similar

Yep, but using my stock (rebuilt steel internal) turbos for now.

Till I speak further to Chris about what he thinks.

From memory, he prefers -7's.

Jaime did I see u at wtac?

Hey Alex!

Nah, don't think so man, I didn't go to WTAC.

How was it? I saw some pics and they look quite good.

Think he wanted -9's. Were trying to convince him to go -5's to make use of his built engine, we'll see if he will succumb to the powah!

But nah -9's great for the street!

:D

If I had a HKS V-Cam or a stroked 2.8lt RB, then -5's would be an option.

But yes, for street use, -7's or -9's.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
    • Welcome mate. Any pics? Even with a DE I'd be well happy if I had that as a 1st car. 
×
×
  • Create New...