Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Birds it was an fg or gf .. Leigh's one lol.. All he'd done is a 4" intake changed the cooler piping highflowed the injectors and tuned. And he's sitting at 304kw or something. With 12psi. Shit was on at like 2k rpm wheel spinning second, such an underestimated car!

LOL ^^

haha yep Aaron, dunno why so many haters I love it.

Birds BA XR6T are aids, BF F6 or FG XR6T ftw

Check out dat fitment.

img0769ih.jpg

Yeh man to add to the fact that sold it for me is that it's f**king comfortable as.

Sups guys!

Been away for a few days so just finished reading all the post.

Welcome back birdy!

Also an update on my stag, car got found and is sitting with the police doing some forensic investigation.....

Insurance is aware of this and said that i should check it out if it'll cost more than 1.6k which is my excess to fix or not since i can still withdraw the claim. hmmmm... advice SAU?

Congrats Leigh! Now u can get another bike..

Inb4 dezz "buy my bike"

Already sold

Seen the one for sale on throttle crew?

I like the slightly lighter bikes, r6 still has 120-130hp although upon researching a little bit cbr600rr is meant to be a better bike little less power but doesn't rev as high(105hp), only weighs 154kg dry too which is less than r6

edit: cbr don't look as good for the 2007-09 ish ones, hate that dash on it too.. no cheaper than r6s either

2008-2011 CBR 600's are pretty much the same.looks wise as far as I know...Charles will know.more

Only thing that changes is the colors really. I'm looking for a red/black 09

Sups guys!

Been away for a few days so just finished reading all the post.

Welcome back birdy!

Also an update on my stag, car got found and is sitting with the police doing some forensic investigation.....

Insurance is aware of this and said that i should check it out if it'll cost more than 1.6k which is my excess to fix or not since i can still withdraw the claim. hmmmm... advice SAU?

well what they said.

get it checked out. if there jsut a radio and shit missing don;t put a claim in.

if it got torched put claim in.

did the cops give you an idea on how much damage.

is it drivable?

so my thoughts would be more than 2.5 K damage put in claim.

remember cops will charge tow fee and shit as well.

why the amount over the excess, well your premium will go up for a few years.

I made mistake when my car got pinched and stereo stolen to claim as it was only a few hundred over my excess thinking anything better than nothing, then premiums up for next few years and I ended up paying much more.

when you get access to view?

did the cops give you an idea on how much damage.

is it drivable?

so my thoughts would be more than 2.5 K damage put in claim.

when you get access to view?

Cop just said it looks alright from the outside but this was before daylight was out. From what she could see from standing outside i assume is that the ignition barrel is damaged...

I have to wait until the cops call me when they're done with finger printing. Anyone know how long it'll take?

When i reported it missing, the cop asked if i wanted them to tow it if they find it. They said that they cover the towing cost..... oh man, hope it doesn't cost.

I made mistake when my car got pinched and stereo stolen to claim as it was only a few hundred over my excess thinking anything better than nothing, then premiums up for next few years and I ended up paying much more.

Muhahaha I purchased rating one protection (extra $40 a year or something pitiful) when I signed up for comp insurance. Made a claim and my premium was cheaper the following year!

Think it was a loophole / f**k up...I should have started at a low rating, but purchasing the protection automatically gave me a rating one lol.

Muhahaha I purchased rating one protection (extra $40 a year or something pitiful) when I signed up for comp insurance. Made a claim and my premium was cheaper the following year!

Think it was a loophole / f**k up...I should have started at a low rating, but purchasing the protection automatically gave me a rating one lol.

this was oh 15-16 years ago, the whole rating 1 for life and stuff not around then.

end result I got shafted.

Also only time I paid an excess.

glad I had comp on dailies tho as been hit multiple times by un insured drivers writing off cars and never had to worry.

Saw an old 80s sports bike with "turbo" written on it at the lights the other day. Upon further research, it appears to have been a Kawasaki GPZ750 turbo. Turns out the big four each had a shot at factory turbocharging their bikes in the 80s. Does the quarter mile in ~11 flat, not bad for the day...

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
    • And yes with a full tank it will hit limiter free revving or driving 6B6CDF6E-4094-426D-A9CB-6C553475FE36.mp4
    • One way of putting the fuel surge idea to rest, is that even when in neutral/clutch in or free revving it still has the same issue, it can’t even get to limiter (7800) so to me that says it can’t be g force, I’m not trying to argue I just want to find the f&$king issue 😡
×
×
  • Create New...