Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day all,

Having sent out 4 trial Roils a coupla weeks back, I'm starting this thread for those trying it to post their results. Can i ask that those trying it only pass final judgement after having completed 750km, but feel free to make comments in the mean time about any changes. Those that I've sent Roil out to are:

Ska, Steve, EnricoPalazzo, Bass Junky, RHiSC, Dreg01, MM2Death, Zahos, jabtronic, meshmesh, camandcandice, R3AP3R, timbar32, GTST....

I'll had more if they come... let me know if i've forgotten anybody,

Cheers guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37992-roil-results/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 283
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Alrighty, firstly some history:

Car:

1993 Skyline R33 S1

Mods:

17 inch Mags

Lots of ricy green paint :)

I have never met this person whom supplied this product, nor am I in any way affiliated with the manufacturer in any way.

Roil Diary:

26/3

Roil arrived by mail, had heaps of product endorsing paperwork with it, to which I promptly put in a pile to forget about, sorry but I am after facts of my own.

After stuffing around asking how much to put it because I am a noob, I added 300 mL into a semi-hot motor (been sitting after driving 6 kms home for about 3 hours)

Drove along the highway doing the limits 141 km’s, no noticeable difference, not giving it any time to either, was raining and hit heavy traffic going north from Brisbane.

27/3

“Seemed” to start faster but then again it might be the placebo affect, also added 100mL to my power steering fluid.

Drove home along highway 143 km’s, no noticeable difference, gave it a bit getting onto the highway too.

Total Kms since adding: 287

28/3

Time to give it a bit :D I go through the gateway toll booths a lot and have roughly guesstimated my speed at certain points and today I got off the mark well and got to the first bump going up the bridge from the gates and hit my markers at around the same time, so no noticeable difference yet.

Did notice that my power steering used to make this awful groaning noise, well not awful, but anyway it made this noise when I was standing still and moving the wheel, and this sound has gone now, so happy with that.

Total Kms since adding: 444

29/3

Road was a bit wet this morning on the way to work, and this road I know very well and did notice that the boost was punching in at around 2k to 2.5k rpm when it used to punch in between 2.5k to 3k rpm. Sweet!

Total Kms since adding: 459

30/3

No other differences but the turbo and power steering noise gone noticed.

Total Kms since adding: 474

1/4

Went on weekly cruise and told about the turbo to which everyone had a good laugh and said it was probably my imagination, but I stand by my finding, and tested it thoroughly tonight, yeap defiantly between 1mm before 2k and 2.5k rpm boost punches in.

Total Kms since adding: 582

2/4

Again went out cruising and watched the boost gauge and yes defiantly punches in where I am guesstimating it is.

Total Kms since adding: 694

4/4

Did my race to the marker from the toll gates again and noticed that when I hit it I am going about ~10kms faster, but then again I might have got a better start, not too much wheel spin that time, so I am not attributing that to roil.

Total Kms since adding: 862

So basically I own a totally stock car except for the mags so I did not think I would see much difference whatsoever and basically you can all laugh and tell me I am dreaming, but I did notice a difference in the turbo boost time, which I like because I hate lag.

I took the old owner, which I am good mates with and asked him if he saw any difference, before telling him anything. After he had a couple of trips around the block, he thought that the turbo was coming on sooner, not as much as I guessed, but he defiantly said it was coming on sooner, not by much though. He attributed it to a pod, when he asked I told him about roil, and showed him the bottle to which he looked at it and said, “hmmmm well I thought all these did nothing, hmmmm”

I am very interested in what results other people had, especially in a car that has more boost, bigger turbo, bigger everything :D

Personally I do not think I will be buying this product for the simple fact is other than long term benefits (which are unknown at this time) there is little point in spending the money to get a little less lag, I am more interested in putting it away for an EBC or a 3inch exhaust turbo back.

Anyway that is my independent report. I was a sceptic, thinking that I probably would not see any difference so I was very surprised to see it had some effect!

Today 7/4 I am putting in a highflow filter which I have been wanting to put in but did not want to put it in mid-testing.

All results were measured by the seat of my pants by myself in my own car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37992-roil-results/#findComment-766069
Share on other sites

A great unbiased report... and that's all i ever asked for. Great to see the lack of lag.. just like s13drifter said in his car!!! To be honest Roil is more about protection of a vehicle's expensive components rather than outright performance... but to see a turbo spool up quicker is definately evidence that friction has been reduced... which is what its all about....

Thanks again....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37992-roil-results/#findComment-766307
Share on other sites

If anyone may be interested in Roil its $50 for a 480mL bottle and that'll ussually treat a whole car (ie engine, gearbox, power steering) unless u've got an auto gearbox with a large capacity or an engine/gearbox oil cooler that may increase capacity. I'll donate $5 from every bottle sold for the first 50 (if i was to get that much) to Prank and the Skyline forum if anyone's interested... though i look foward to the other 3 getting back with their results too...

Cheers guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37992-roil-results/#findComment-766431
Share on other sites

Interesting... i was/am sceptical...

i would love to see Sydneykids response about something like this

Ska did a good job of keeping a diary, but (and no offence) seems like he's a noob like most of us here (including me)....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37992-roil-results/#findComment-766621
Share on other sites

picking mine up tomorrow very keen to see what this does to the 1J (uses 2X bushed type bearing ceramic turbos) my enginge is getting a little long in the tooth now and i can feel the difference from when the engine was newer... basically if its going to work it will work here, i'm actually expecting the biggest diferences to me in my diff... Anywayz i'll let everyone know my findings...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37992-roil-results/#findComment-770371
Share on other sites

So far we haven't had any quantifiable evidence yet.

Some back to back dyno tests and accelleration tests (preferably drag strip) are needed, to assist the case. Till we get a few of those under the belt we don't have any respectable evidence.

jetpilot 1986,

I encourage you to wait till you get some good data. It's best that you leave the testimonials. For those testing the product for free I think the least they can do is put up a few bucks for a dyno run.

As for spooling a turbo at an earlier rpm (lack of lag); sorry that's not going to happen no matter how good the lubricant is. It may help the turbo's response 'time' but, we need to do some very tricky timing of that (can be done though).

Good on people for giving something new a go all the same.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37992-roil-results/#findComment-772762
Share on other sites

Both s13drifter and Ska claimed to have had considerable decreases in turbo lag, and that's just on this forum... without wanting to refer to 'testimonials' again, beleive me, this is very common thing amongst turbo cars that have used roil. Remember that Roil isn't a lubricant, it actually treats the surface of metal to produce a lower co-efficient of friction, and as such its only natural that something that spins as fast a turbo given lest friction will spool up faster...

Each to his own... but i've seen the results first hand.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37992-roil-results/#findComment-772840
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
    • Oh and some up-and-comings; New rear drivers wheel bearing. I'll do that this weekend while the diff is out. The car is already up and the d/c axles and missing exhaust will help with space. This is the last bearing for me to do and I've been dragging my feet on it. I also have some new EBC blue stuff pads for the car and some new brake fluid. I haven't ever flushed the fluid in this car and looking forward to it. I have 600 degree fluid to put in. Not exactly "race fluid" but better than the typical stuff I have been using.
    • A proper clutch/plate type mechanical diff with quite a lot of pre-load and high locking % is better for drifting. Much more consistent in its behaviour. A helical can be annoyingly vague and inconsistent in how it responds under the sorts of abuse found in drifting.
    • Some updates here. I pulled the entire interior out, minus some trim to respray the seats with Colourlock dye. It turned out really nice though I accidentally let the dog in the car after and she scratched up the front seat.  This is what it looked like before, the colour was just washing out everywhere but thankfully the leather was in good nic. Then after the respray   And after the bloody dog jumped in The headliner is out waiting to be retrimmed, but it will stay out now until Nov - see why below. I replaced the stereo/headunit with a period-styled Android headunit. I have no after pics, but I'll get some. This is because of the missing pixels. I tried to fix this twice with replacement ribbon cables but couldn't. Also the bluetooth interface I'd bought for this was crap. Then there's the rusty roof. Pics and info in this other thread. I have decided to get this repaired professionally, but I'll update that thread. This is why the headliner will stay out for now. I'll be getting the roof and bonnet resprayed at the same time the rust is fixed. I also had an interesting issue with my drivers door lock.  For a small period I was having issues getting any 12v power to the car - I mean *any*. It would have no dash lights, nothing. It happened while I was at the shops and I couldn't get in the car. So, we had 2 problems. The most pressing here is that I was locked out. I have only a single physical key hole on the car, the drivers door and no amount of turning would unlock the car. Surely it doesn't need power for this? The second issue is why am I losing all power periodically, The battery isn't dead, its almost like the battery isn't even there. Two issues that were surprisingly easy to fix. You fellow BMW over-engineering lovers will appreciate this. The lock in the door has 5 states; mechanical lock, electric lock, neutral, electric unlock, mechanical unlock achieved at -90 degrees, -45 degrees, 0 degrees, 45 degrees and 90 degrees. Although, the unlock is towards the front of the car, so opposite for LHD countries. Sticking the key in and turning 45 left or right is what is used 99% of the time. It activates the central locking etc. 90 degrees is for dead battery access and, obvs, only un/locks the one door. But because the mechanical lock is never used and is 27 years old, it seizes up. I was totally unable to turn the key far enough to get to the mechanical unlock (At the time of locking myself out, I didn't even know this was a thing). I eventually did it with some vicegrips and teflon spray.  I made a quick vid for other E39 peeps.   The battery issue is totally new to me also - It wasn't making sufficient contact between the post and the terminal. The terminal was bolted on tight, but the car wouldn't have power. After checking the battery with my multimeter I accidentally contacted the terminal and the battery post and the car got power. The battery was only a few years old and in good condition. I cleaned the post and the terminal with a wire brush, bolted it back on tight and never had the issue again. I'm still surprised that despite having solid contact it didn't work. Also, the car was getting Warragamba sized pools of water in the back when it rained. My initial concern was another rust problem. But when I went out on Weds while it was raining and while I had no headliner in I could see a steady stream of water coming through the roof mounted aerial. As this aerial is for the (now removed) car phone I pulled it out and whacked a blanking grommet in the hole. It seems fine now. I'm thinking I might get the hole permanently filled when the rust is fixed. Moving forward and things in progress; The tailgate needs some attention. I have taken all the trim off to clean it all and address some small rust spots. I have partially done all of this but I'll finish it up hopefully this weekend. As all the trim are now entirely devoid of trim clips I have bought a heap of strong velcro and I'm hoping it does a good enough job as any of this trim in good condition is super expensive and usually in Europe as we dont have many of the wagons here. Suspension and brakes!!! This is exciting. In the front; New control arms New sway bar links New lower Eibach springs (the only modification I'm planning on this car) M Sport shocks (these came with the car and will replace the longer shocks in the car) New top mounts Used 540i calipers (stock brakes suck!) New 540i disks and pads (22x296 mm for 528 and 30x334 mm for 540i) New front wheel bearings (thank all that is holy for bolt on bearings!) Annnnd in the back; New control arms New sway bar links Adjustable air suspension arms (fool the car into what the current height is so the self levelling suspension can match the new front ride height) New ball joints I'll also be doing a brake fluid flush while I'm in there. I'm planning on switching the car over to the 16's that came with it so I can clean up and respray the M Sport 17's. They've lost a lot of colour over the years and have some gutter rash. None of this will start until the E90 is back.
    • You mean you will regret it for drifting duties? I don't quite follow.
×
×
  • Create New...