Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The wastegate does stick at a certain spot, but stao assumes me that that it won't open to the point where it jams when the actuator isn't connected.

It's holding boost very very well, it only dips in the last few hundred rpm like they all do, I'm just super annoyed that it wouldnt do it on the dyno. So now I've got a rock solid 14psi map and a turbo that makes 18-21psi depending on temperature. I'm guessing this is the same problem I had when the engine blew up. Got a tune done, turbo decided to work for a day and without a knock map it shat itself.

  • Replies 886
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The boost level is not greatly affected by surrounding temp as it is pressure regulated. A increase in boost normally respond to changes in back pressure, means the turbo some how breath more freely. Or maybe a vacuum hose split?

I have offered exchange for upgrade or alteration now and before, during and after the engine rebuild, I don't know the reason of been so reluctant to do so. If there is a genuine believe of a part not functioning correctly then the usual act would be contact your supplier and get it sorted. I can give you a g2.5 for exchange taken out from my own car which has been tested. Check out results at dyno section and see if that is what you are after.

the problem is that i cant have the car off the road for the length of time required to pull the turbo off and send it down then wait for the arrival of the new turbo, my baby is due soon and i need my car. i messaged you about me paying a deposit so you could send me the new turbo first so i could just do a quick change over but never got a response. and what if i send my turbo down and then the new turbo has all the same problems, what am i supposed to do then? either way i lose out.

My bad I didn't saw your reply. I've replied to your email and that arrangement is fine.

If the same problem persists with a new turbo which has already been tested then the issue is not turbo related, or at least you know its not turbo related. And it will be very little that I can help you with in terms of a car issue.

You can take your car to DVS or Toshi after installation whom has a fair understanding of the RB25det engines.

Ok so I've installed my boost control (read exhaust restrictor) and have got it back down to a steady 15psi. My question is. What is wrong with my tune? It's now surging rather badly.

And don't say it's because of my exhaust because it's not. My assumption is that it's over fueling and fouling the plugs, does that sound about right?

Edited by lilcrash

It's not actually a boost control. Just fixed my exhaust. I usually run a pair of twin 3 inch pipes from just after the wheel. I re installed the hks hi power and it has created enough restriction to drop the boost.

The boost is very stable, it just surges, it's doing what I thought was the knock maps were with the other exhaust, that's why I'm wondering if my plugs are just fouling.

Plugs look good, gapped at .8.

It's not actually a boost control. Just fixed my exhaust. I usually run a pair of twin 3 inch pipes from just after the wheel. I re installed the hks hi power and it has created enough restriction to drop the boost.

The boost is very stable, it just surges, it's doing what I thought was the knock maps were with the other exhaust, that's why I'm wondering if my plugs are just fouling.

Plugs look good, gapped at .8.

What has surge got to do with fouled plugs? Fouled plugs will make it misfire, which is inherently different from surging. It was tuned for 14psi yes? To me it sounds like your tuner has set up the TP cut just above what it was tuned for, but I'm really just speculating given your description.

I made them myself, so make an offer, I think they cost me about $30. They only replace the hks rear section.

Well I do have some issues that I think are wheel related so I might look into that, I need to find some steel rims that will fit.

Edited by lilcrash

the original tune was with them. there is something else wrong, its starting to stall when i take off, blowing excessive smoke and using a lot more fuel. i should have known it wouldn't just work like a normal car. when nissan make a dodgy car they do it well. the whole time ive had the stagea its never not had something wrong.

the original tune was with them. there is something else wrong, its starting to stall when i take off, blowing excessive smoke and using a lot more fuel. i should have known it wouldn't just work like a normal car. when nissan make a dodgy car they do it well. the whole time ive had the stagea its never not had something wrong.

Don't blame Nissan. Blame yourself for modifying it.

the car is a 99? it's had 13 years of whatever people wanna do to it, not nissans fault! as the certifier/engineers that did my car said most the nissans are on about their 4th bastardiser!, if you have a later nissan with a cvt and a stretched timing chain etc you can probably comnplain a bit!haha

I'll be up your way soon if you want to meet up and compare stuff

i've only got 1 tiny issue with mine so it would be good to compare to (reasonably stock)

are you running stock brakes still? because option1garage do 17 inch steel wheels, they won't clear 4 pots but should clear stock brakes

http://www.boostcruising.com.au/forums/index.php?showtopic=789275

that only lists 16's and im pretty sure they were only $100ish/rim on the pre-buy

maybe check out JPP (http://www.japaneseperformance.com.au/) and see what they can do too

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...