Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone my battery light came on last night in my R34 while I was driving around town and I got to see it for a few seconds before all of a sudden my revs just died out and my car died, then immediately came back to life. The light would then intermittently turn on and off and the car died once or twice more then it stopped, and for about an hour nothing happened, it just drove normal. After this hour it happened again when I was just about home so I parked up and have left it alone today.

I tested the alternator this morning and it was charging at 13.8v and I checked my battery and that was holding 13.8v also while the car was running. Does anyone have any ideas of what this could be?

Mods:

RB25/30

ViPEC

Plazmaman Plenum

3076 on a 6boost Highmount

50mm Turbosmart Wastegate

Sard Injectors

Intank 044

Battery Mounted in boot (I checked the earths and connections on this and they looked good)

Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks

Also check your charge rate with your high beams, a/c fan, and brake lights on.

Need to see what the charge is doing under load.

Could still be a faulty alternator, possibly voltage reg on its way out.

But as mentioned, check your battery terminals, and earth points first.

Then go from there.

Good luck.

Sounds like the alternator or volt reg.

Really need a dc clamp meter to test it properly. Volt meters are handy but can give rricky/false readings.

if it was the alternator or reg the engine wouldnt die immediately as it still has the battery to run off. ecm would prob switch off between 8-10 so there would be ample time

sounds like something loose or even a short in batt cables

Hey guys, checked all those things and everything seems fine. The light came back on yesterday and so I tested the alternator and it was only charging at 11v. So I'm going to get it replaced as it seems to be an intermittent problem with that.

check the belt tension aswell? could be slipping

Once more, intermittant alternator wouldn't cause the engine to cut out like the OP describes... It would continue to run just fine off the battery for many more km's until the battery voltage drops to something crazy low like 8v or whatever the ECU starts getting confused at.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...