Jump to content
SAU Community

Tips For Removing The Screws On An Oil Pump

JustinP

By JustinP,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

blue_vl_t Rising Star

blue_vl_t

Posted
Posted

most important is to have a correct fitting screwdriver, if then doing as Simon has said, and you still cannot get them,

then do the same again except with vice grips around the shaft of the screw driver.

JustinP Mentor

JustinP

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guys for all the tips, will give it another crack tonight.

Mafia - I did actually try freezing the whole thing, sounds like I got it around the wrong way! Will try the heat option.

:cheers:

luvpsi Mentor

luvpsi

Posted
Posted

need the correct sized screw driver, a way of holding the oil pump so it wont move. pref horizontally, then lean into it with your body weight and try and crack it.

avoid using an impack screw driver thats for sure

Why would you avoid using impact screwdriver I used to be a engine rebuilder and using a impact screwdriver is the only way using heat warps the housing which is a good idea

GTR_JOEY Grand Master

GTR_JOEY

Posted
Posted

Had the same problem, use an impact screw driver....

Or what I did was vice the pump, got the correct size driver with a large ring spanner on the handle for leverage,

Then turned it while a mate pushed down and located the screw driver so it doesn't strip out

Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
Posted

ive pulled plenty of oil pumps apart none of which have needed heat or an impact screwdriver. i'd say avoid an impact scredriver cause an oil pump is a fairly sensitive thing in a weakish housing.. some people are too heavy handed and too much potential to f**k it up

sriver killer Proficient

sriver killer

Posted
Posted

ive pulled plenty of oil pumps apart none of which have needed heat or an impact screwdriver. i'd say avoid an impact scredriver cause an oil pump is a fairly sensitive thing in a weakish housing.. some people are too heavy handed and too much potential to f**k it up

I pulled apart plent without needing an impact screw driver lol

purchase a screw driver with a hex style shank so that you can fit a spanner on the shaft.

place screwdriver end into screw, give the screw a couple of love taps to shock the thread,

Then use the spanner on your screwdriver to crack that bad boy

StevenCJR31 Veteran

StevenCJR31

Posted
Posted

I pulled apart plent without needing an impact screw driver lol

purchase a screw driver with a hex style shank so that you can fit a spanner on the shaft.

place screwdriver end into screw, give the screw a couple of love taps to shock the thread,

Then use the spanner on your screwdriver to crack that bad boy

^^ yep, thats what worked for me, once u round off those heads on the screws then its in the bin it goes

kitto Mentor

kitto

Posted
Posted

You really need a degree in the bachelor of arts thumbsup.gif

If your having so much trouble undoing them with the correct size screw driver, it sounds like its been pulled apart and had the screws loctited previously. They really arn't that hard to remove at all.

As said before though, hex shanked screwdriver.

tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

Sit it outside on a stinking hot day, use gloves to handle it and then do as above^^^^ the extra heat works. If its winter use an oven on low around 50'C and try it.

A bit of low heat will let you undo the impossible.

JustinP Mentor

JustinP

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well I finally got around to giving it another crack. Used my impact driver and they came out easily haha. Thanks for all the input :)

Also suprised to confirm that Neo's come with an N1 pump as standard.

JustinP Mentor

JustinP

Posted
  • Author
Posted

And at least I know its not one of the Chinese copies!

yeah i mentioned that in another thread as i discovered it not long ago. N1 pumps stronger then people think too...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...