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  • 2 weeks later...

^ haha will post something up soon dude,

so bit the bullet and upgraded my coilovers, first time ive ever had brand new coil overs, should be good

ended up getting CS2s with 9kg fronts 7kg rear. pretty easy fit, just needed to redrill the rear strut tower to two bolt. cheers to brae for his wisdom and help!

n7tjd.jpg

2bnmkp.jpg

fronts had been leaking for ages and where only tein HAs

4rx2di.jpg

^ one of the main reasons i go these was because of the extra castor adjustment u can get, still need more thou so will look into modifying these in the future

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

^ haha no worries, yea i miss the fj :( i have ideas of going back to one, you never know.....

rbffpu.jpg

Brae was nice enough to mod my LCAs 25mm, so 50mm total more track, should be good, fitting up new balljoints and bushs today

thanks mate

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also did the hit and run waki day couple weeks ago, second time at waki, pretty cool lil track

this is what ive been playing around with recently, basically wanted to get rid of the castor bushs and go a rose joint, theres a few kits ive seen but i still think they have to much going on, wanted to keep it simple, so to follow the trend of silvia front end, ive gone to modified s14 castor arms, boxed and modded dr30 castor brakets to suit

34ngtxz.jpg

boxed and brace welded in

opuydx.jpg

brae worked his majic and extended these by 75mm, will look into making up a one peice section next year when im sure the lenghts are spot on

313ltlk.jpg

dummy fit in car

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hole saw out original castor bush mounts re drill to suit rose joint,

5vrds3.jpg

i wanted the rose joint to bolt up here as its the strongest part of the castor braket

11jouux.jpg

boxed up

2q2l207.jpg

also got these offset rack mounts, hopefully theyl work...

love this build, its DR30 and drift what more could you want

now with the new castor rod set up you'll be setting up the camber tops to be camber adjustable only i figure

also give us an update on how the powered by max offset rack mount bushes go and if it reduces bind for the 6mm of location change

  • 3 weeks later...

33tjz8h.jpg

figured out the lenghts needed, Brae worked his majic again, and made up a one piece section, since we used GKtech castor arms and then modified them, we thought it would be good to appropiately name them "GF Tech" ;)

cheers again brae for all your help!

35812xl.jpg

fitted up a s14 rack, you can kind off make out the difference in thickness, on the left hand side tube, fitted up pretty easy, just needed to use the s14 low pressure fitting, and bend high pressure fitting abit to suit, im hoping because the s14 rack doesnt have the speed sensor in it, maybe my steering will be better...

ive also fitted up the psm rack mounts, so far so good

33ab94y.jpg

also needed these, with the extended lcas, tie rods ran out off thread ... these are said to give u 25mm extra tie rod length and 19mm more rack travel..

drifting next weekend, hopefully car goes well

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    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
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