Jump to content
SAU Community

  

110 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

I say it again.  It doesn't matter what shape or size you make your plenum.  The range of different runner lengths amounts to precious little.  You can go short, like a Greddy style, or you can go as long as the original lower manifold like the Plazmaman plenum....and that's just about the extent of it.  The difference in tuning for peak torque between that lot is noticeable, but only a few hundred rpm really.  Nothing like the choice between your lower and higher options with 2000 rpm between them.

The only option you would have would be to rhink way outside the square that people already work in and make some really long runners that go up and over the cam covers to a plenum that runs along the length of the exhaust cam cover.  Would be a bit ugly, and would probably be a squeeze, and would probably suck with a high mount turbo.  But at least then you could push the peak torque rpm down.  (ie you could at least work toward offering people a real choice as per your original post).

But really, we're talking about turbo engines here.  The turbo is far more important.  Making the boost threshold as low as possible by correct exhaust manifold design and turbo selection is far far more important and effective than tweaking the inlet manifold.

Do not get me wrong.  I am totally in favour of well designed and proven equal distribution inlet manifolds.  It is just that 99.9% of people who design their own have no idea how to make the flow spread evenly, and no idea how to fix a poor design if they bother to test it and find out that it sucks.  Internal aero treatments are a black art.  It is quite likely that the Greddy, HKS etc plenums are not even that well designed.  I haven't looked at what results people get from them (in the way of correct mixtures as shown by per cylinder exhaust temps), but it's a fair bet that they're really just designed to look good and be as big as can fit in the space available.

Edited by GTSBoy
  • Replies 89
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I'll run the stock tb and see what happens. Just did the calculations and plenum will be 4.9 in volume which is more then big enough. I totally understand what you saying gtsboy I'm not trying to achieve a mirical if I can get results like the plasma man I'll be happy

Just do it man, no one knows how long the plazma man plenums etc took to design and get right, all it takes it one person to change a car scene, you might be that one person who can make cheap reliable and proven manifolds, but only time can tell.

Will favourite this thread, I say pics

So is runner length and width pointless on Forced induction? I didn't know that?

What about off boost torque? It's good to have low down torque I reckon off boost.

For my R33 on the street I have the OEM turbo at 0.85 bar. It works really well as a responsive street car because I get full boost and a flat torque curve from just under 3k to just slightly dropping off at red line.

So for street speeds. i.e doing 2nd gear pulls it is full of win, really snaps the necks of passengers from the bottom of the rev range.:yes:

Runners are a major factor and plenum size for that matter. You can't just bolt any plenum on and expect it to work cos you have a good turbo setup everything has to work together. For a stock setup I'm sure you can't beat the stock plenum 1000s of hours went into designing it. When you start changing turbos and exhaust manifolds induction will change so a bigger plenum will benefit your setup if you can get more air in your engine will love you for it

But really, we're talking about turbo engines here. The turbo is far more important. Making the boost threshold as low as possible by correct exhaust manifold design and turbo selection is far far more important and effective than tweaking the inlet manifold.

+1

Stock exhaust manifold, stock R34 turbo, DE+T R33 here, and other mods yield a boost threshold of ~1500rpm. 7psi by 2000-2250rpm. Not a power house, but having bulk bottom-end that pulls through to red-line is awesome fun on the street.

So 3000-6500 is where it's at....

Even the stock exhaust manifold can see improvements. Iv modified one with great results allowing it to flow better by adding a external gate. People where not jumping up and down saying it can't be done more intrigued to see results. This is the same sort of thing just on the cold side

RE: initial question, you are talking RB25 so 5000-8500rpm is out of the question for a stocker :)

Only two choices, and those two choices will depend on turbo selection over and above anything else.

It's funny you see people save $700 on a turbo/manifold, so they can spend $700 on a plenum.

Spending the money on the turbo/manifold will always reap better benefits as its the most critical part of the setup on a FI application as the low-mid level modification marker. Only once you start making serious beef do things like head work and so on come into the equation, and that is simply to the the substancially larger budget.

Not saying this is a bad idea, i say go for it, especially if you've got the tools to make it economically (of course the time as well).

*BUT* if it means you are going cheaper on turbo selection to fund it, that is going backwards.

Tell me how many tests have been done on a 300 dollar eBay special fck all it works so people buy it.

Remember they are generally a copy of someone else who's already done it :thumbsup:

Or so similar there really isn't anything in it design "difference" wise.

Mate i agree with your comment re:they dont get what your trying to do! And not saying people in here aren't really qualified to answer the questions your asking but i wouldn't take to much of it in. Just by saying its Made in OZ will get you attention due to the majority of Chinese made crap knock off's. I suggest you take a good look at an OEM RB26 intake manifold, there's something inside those a good eye can spot thats really quite trick,and theyre very good. ;-) as for power range/band the engine specs/mods and tuning will control 95% of that. Trumpets for each cylinder (if u can do and keep witin your desired budget) will help off boost response. I like the fact your having a go mate and good luck. :cheers:

What is your problem mate seriously? Did you fail to do it yourself so now no one else can have a go like seriously I'm done trying to convince you that this could work. Take your issues else where

I don't think you understand what I'm saying. In reverse order (ie, taking the most recent issue first);

Point 1: It's not a new idea. Of course it's not a new idea. It's been done to death. There are all those expensive Jap ones. There are the cheap Chinese copies of the Jap ones. There are kits to put the RB26 plenum onto cut down RB2X runners. There's the Plazmaman plenum to put on the top of the lower half of the original. The list goes on.

Point 2: Not one of these options offers a significant difference in power really. The Greddy style ones hurt the bottom end for a slight improvement in the top end. The Plazmaman ones seem fairly neutral, although it doesn't seem wise to me to try to use the bottom half of the runners into a front entry plenum unless you spend a lot of time doing flow treatments* inside the plenum to make sure the distribution is good. This is because the bottom half of the original manifold was designed to work with the top half, which anyone who looks at an RB manifold should be able to work out is a pretty strange looking thing that looks like it shouldn't flow evenly but does. This indicates that the Nissan guys spent some time and effort making it work that way, because they certainly wouldn't cross their fingers and hope like most home plenum fabricators do. The only reason these plenums are worth having is that they allow you to put the bigger TBs on that are needed at higher power levels, make the pipework easier and shorter, and probably have bigger diameter runners to try to make them less restrictive at high power levels. There is really nothing else in it.

Point 3: At no time in this thread did I poo poo your idea to build a plenum yourself. I didn't even say anything to warn you about how hard it is to get right. I didn't even say that for the time and effort involved you would be better off to use a proven one because you are unlikely to do a better job and the proven ones won't need to be sawn open and fiddled with after the first build to start fixing the flow balance problems (assuming you know how to test for even flow and do so instead of just bolting it on and messing up the mixtures). I let other people say these very true things. What I did tell you is that you were wrong in thinking that you could have a significant influence on peak torque or power revs. You are most certainly free to make your own plenum. I didn't say you couldn't.

You either need to learn to read, or think, or both.

*If you don't know what I mean by flow treatments, then good luck getting the plenum to flow evenly.

I'm trying to Design a plenum that is cost effective that give people the option of using stock parts so on. Without damaging flow and response. Also not spending 1000s of dollars to buy a jap one. I understand how they flow I also understand the runners are the main part that makes it work but not everyone wants balls out power most people are happy with a tidy looking bay and a nice responsive set up. Are you now going to bring me down for building a fuel rail saying I don't understand how it works. I'm not some young punk that thinks he can do whatever I'm actually putting mathamatics and science into designing it all. Tell me have you ever stepped out of the box and tried something for yourself rather then being like a sheep and doing what people say is best. Do you do or your own your or pay a mechanic to do it? You have said what you needed to say and I understand your views. But please keep your input out now rather then stirring up a argument. Oh there is a thread in the fab section regarding a external gate on a rb20 manifold y dont you go and tell me how to improve on that seeming your the expert

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am getting the same issue. Did you resolve it? I just got it after installing my new super coppermix and literally the same issue, new fork, new 18mm carrier, release bearing that came with the kit and replicated the exact same sound. 
    • If you like - I have the STL files so I can email em. There's a couple of gotchas (i.e the holes are not threaded so you might need/will need) to utilize some M3 melt-in threads for some of the points. However if you want to be super accurate, and are willing to remove your calipers and your SHOCKS it's a really good tool. You also might need to scale the part that measures the tyre width a bit wider. It defaults to a 7.5in tyre and I mean who is running that. Luckily with the magic of CAD this is very easy to rescale.
    • jeebus. glad you weren't under it while performing the stunt. Also thanks for the link to the wheel measurer, exactly what I needed
    • In the older stuff there were very significant differences 2wd to 4wd, for example Stagea had strut front end for 2wd and double wishbone for 4wd so it was not minor to swap. From poking around the 2wd v37, it *looks* like it might be more possible; some of the parts specifically have "2wd" stamped on them which suggests the platforms are more similar. You'd still want to start with a 4wd half cut to swap stuff from though. I'd suggest if you don't have a tune on the ECU you don't really need one on the trans either. Throttle mapping is in the ECU side (and you can always use a Roar Pedal if you want the throttle to actually respond to your foot), and really if you are happy with the stock power you probably accept the stock trans behaviour too....its all made to be "sporty" not racey.
    • So, updates. I have not washed the car since it came back from Tassie. I've driven it around a bit but not got around to actually sorting it out. I DID raise it because I cracked the rear bar leaving a hotel which was very distressing. Interestingly, the car drives more compliant now that it's raised a fair bit (5mm front, 15mm rear). Also noticed that my FR height was 10mm lower than FL. So that's now sorted out, too. I also bought this and had it printed: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1576422240/wheel-and-tire-fitment-tool-universal?ref=shop_home_feat_1&dd=1&logging_key=08f604d9fa4cc383550ba985e6ac85cd5cac7fbb%3A1576422240 Now, if I was smart I would have taken my brake calipers off to actually use this correctly but it was evident enough to me that in the region where the caliper was... there was nothing to hit suspension/guard/arm wise. So I'm going with "it'll be fine" after using the tool to hopefully very precisely measure the wheel clearance. Also while doing this, I had the very VERY bad idea of jacking one of the wheels/suspension arms up while the rest of the car was on jack stands. I did this to see how the arm would travel. This all was well and good until the car slid off the stands and went through a fence. So don't do that. Incredibly nobody was hurt and there was only minor damage to the rear bumper as the car didn't have far to slide, and had 3-4 wheels on it. The only damage turned out to be the fence itself which was easy to fix, and a little bit of damage to the fibreglass rear bumper trim. I had already planned to try a touch up paint kit to fix the time I drove into my garage door to see if it'd help in the interim before I get it fixed properly. I used the Dr Colorchip kit after looking online and seeing everyone talking about it. Yes it's made for chips and not huge broken missing pieces and I'll be 500% recommending it for stone chips after using it for stupid things like me. This took about ... 10 minutes and looking at the half assed photo the 30 second job I did on the bumper corner was almost perfect just by using the tiny little brush and painting it in. The sealact stuff to remove over-painting is really useful, so if/when I do it again I'll likely slather the touch up paint well over it and then clean it up with the cleaning solution. The wheels should arrive in a couple of weeks. I am still kinda confident after doing a stupid amount of measuring (and borrowing a set of 18x10.5+15) that they will not fit because I overlooked something, somehow and flew too close to the sun. ALSO R34 GTR guard liners do not fit on a GTT. I bought the undertray brake duct guides and had the wonderful problem of them not fitting my intake, my oil cooler and the liners themselves were even worse. Attempting to fit them won't work in general - You would have to cut them up as another poster mentioned as the bodywork is different on the GTT. At least I can try to resell them. So instead of cutting those up, I cut up my old already-cut-up GTT liners and extended them by using some PP plastic and drilling some 8mm holes for some nissan clips for the 'extra' bit. Because I was happy to cut them I was able to mount them pretty damn forward so I now have some semblance of guard liners, and the brake vents seal the bumper from the bottom. It sort-of-looks like this, to give some idea - If you look at the GTR and then the GTT this is when I realised that I needed to seriously measure as the inside of the rim area is entirely, entirely, entirely different and could not take any internet measurements for granted.   
×
×
  • Create New...