Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This starts with saying that the car (R33 GTST) has been stripped down ready to be built for racing next year. The current engine, a fully built 400RWkW 26/30 is out on a stand whilst i decide its fate - keep or sell.

I came across and managed to pick up a nearly new 6.0L L98 V8 for a steal ($500) - dont ask me where it came from.

So heres my thinking - drop in the V8 and then look at whether it gets supercharged or twin turboed - as i build the car back up to race. (E85, new comp, cage, custome wiriing etc.)

Interested in anyones thoughts - ive seen a couple of LS1 built Skylines, and they seemed to be a bit of a laugh - figured why not if the engine just popped up.

Appreciate constructive comments for discussion.

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

there is a lot of work to get them in.

It IS NOT just a drop in and drive proposition

Thanks - but rebuilding the car up isnt exactly an afternoons work.

Anything constructive guys?

like i said how much power do you want 26/30 at 400kw will be very quick and torqey. the v8 proberly could take a better thrashing when aspirated but then when you turbo the thing it might aswell be a rb

Racing? What style of racing? If its multi lap stuff then I would say go NA cubes anyday of the week. If its just fling aroudn track stuff then I say you are better sticking with what you have as the new setup is most likely going to cost an extra 10K on top of what you already have and the car would be probably quicker with that 10k spent on other things rather then engine

Thanks - but rebuilding the car up isnt exactly an afternoons work.

Anything constructive guys?

honestly i thought that was pretty constructive...

there are a lot of people that think an LS into R chassis is pretty plug and play

Thanks Ham

Headers need to be custom, the starter doesnt fit, unless you hunt down a LHD bell housing.

Custom tail shaft

modified or custom sump unless you want the engine sitting way forward in the engine bay.

You make no mention of buying the T56 box, so finding one of those, or Custom flywheel, box adaptor/clutch/slave cylinder

Custom exhaust Y-Pipe from your very expensive custom headers to join up to the car back, which will need to be modified.

WIRING!!!!!!

P.s i have nothing against the V8 Swap...apart from it being a dirty Chev motor lol

and I will be doing similar with the supra...not 100% on which motor yet though

But I'm taking out a warn out stock 1JZ, not a 400kw very expensive 2J if that makes sense

Been here done most of that.

Never again. Engines are good but not good enough to warrant the problems you will encounter.

The people offering advise have never actually done the conversion.

Custom box adaptor- forget it.

Wiring is simple

Engine locating is a pain without the gear stick being 300mm too far back. Engine also can't go very far back unless you want to remove the clutch master cylinder. Drivers rocker cover has 5mm clearance.

Custom sump is not needed.

Custom pipes are not a necessity. It is possible to use some cut and shut pipes.

Starter is a head f**k.

Rack location is a bigger head f**k

I had one... Did this...

DragDay431.jpg

Pretty awesome with a cam only.

Forget TT or blowing it. Not only will it be hard to fit you won't need the extra power.

Mine made 325 - 331 RWKW with a 225 - 234 @ 114 cam... All you need friend!

DragDay436.jpg

I had one... Did this...

DragDay431.jpg

Pretty awesome with a cam only.

Forget TT or blowing it. Not only will it be hard to fit you won't need the extra power.

Mine made 325 - 331 RWKW with a 225 - 234 @ 114 cam... All you need friend!

DragDay436.jpg

Man I love those cam & tune packages that add 100rwkw they are just the bomb!

It's just a pity they don't exist!

Man I love those cam & tune packages that add 100rwkw they are just the bomb!

It's just a pity they don't exist!

with ls2 and ls3's they do.... the ls3's that come out in the HSV's are what 317kw? my brother bought a crate ls3 with a mild cam, replaced his ls1 with it and with a tune (already had an exhaust) it made 440rwhp (330rwkw), been done countless times with the same results. they may be a dinosaur motor but they're pretty easy to get power out of and a hell of a lot nicer to drive than most 300+kw RB's

Man I love those cam & tune packages that add 100rwkw they are just the bomb!

It's just a pity they don't exist!

You obviously don't know what you are talking about......

Mine went from 227 to 331RWKW.

Made this with the above plus full exhaust and underdriven pulley. Plenty have made more.................

Just check ls1.com.au if you don't beleive me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
    • Trailer got new mudguards to accommodate the new wheels Lightweight ally Painted, stickered and done ✅ 👌  
×
×
  • Create New...