Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 231
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Tyres and suspension are your big ones in a Gts t

Yes it's the key for the low 60' time.

I know a stock GTST with a 100 shot of NOS and drag radicals did an 11.4 IIRC, which is quite stupendous.

never happen on street tyres

drag radials as a minimum and you would be looking at 550+bhp at the crank to get you a high 10 at around 130mph after lots of practice

Auto or manual?

Manual.

So that is ~350 rwkw then?

What is a 350 rwkw car gonna do on street tyres then? I don't just mean $100 a corner china spec but semi-slicks if necessary.

What tyres?

And can the person drive?

Two most important things over power IMO. If you can't drive you'll need a LOT of compensation (power & auto probably the easiest)

I'm talking potential really. Like how a $10,000 piano can sound better than a Bontempi keyboard but only if the person can play it properly.

as others have alluded too it will take more than just power.

Circuit semi's are rubbish on a drag strip, will need the correct tyre's for the job

plus you could have 350rwkws but if the car is laggy as hell then it wont run a 10

I know of a 1000hp R33 GTR that barely runs 12's because it is so laggy.

Have you dont any drag racing at all before?

I have done a fair bit and I still suck balls at getting a manual car off the line well

What suspension do you have? sub frame mods?

as others have alluded too it will take more than just power.

Circuit semi's are rubbish on a drag strip, will need the correct tyre's for the job

plus you could have 350rwkws but if the car is laggy as hell then it wont run a 10

I know of a 1000hp R33 GTR that barely runs 12's because it is so laggy.

Have you dont any drag racing at all before?

I have done a fair bit and I still suck balls at getting a manual car off the line well

What suspension do you have? sub frame mods?

Well it is not my car per se. I am talking a GTST in an abstract or hypothetical sense.

But thanks for asking about my car anyway. :thumbsup:

Suspension wise I have HKS coilovers, whiteline sway bars, just the main subframe bushings are poly, camber arms. Have a Cusco mech LSD as well.:cheers:

well if it is hypothetical

4 link rear end, RB34, Auto, 5000+rpm stall and n2o to get it on boost on the start line

Seems a bit pessimistic when you consider a stock one has done an 11.4 with a 10lb bottle of laughing gas.

dropping 7/10ths at that level is a lot

eg twin turbo soarers are running 11.6's with just a front mount, boost and ECU

10's is a whole other ball game

obviously you dont need half of that stuff I listed

you don't need any of that stuff.., unless you want to run 8's haha

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

There was a R33 GTSt for sale a while ago, had a powerglide, high stall, GT35R etc and did 10.9 or something. Apparently only 288rwkw too.

Yeh but if it was manual it would make at least another 35-40rwkw, but dyno figures don't mean shit, they are all over the place at the best of times.

cheers

darren

I did a 12.3 in a full weight 25/30 GTST 5 spd, 350 killerwasps, GTR diff, 245/45 17 Dunlop Direzzas, Bilsteins and kings, I had about 30 goes at trying to better it at the SAUNSW drag day, terminal speed was 123 mph, 60 foot was 2.? seconds which was crap but the tyres just kept bagging up, if you got some good drag radials and stock shockers you will most likely get a better 60 ft time, BUT, in all honesty, you may be dreaming.

10.99 is along way away from 12.3, Im hoping for 11.9 next time but I will be using drag radials.

:cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A bit late but A disk S13P fit over stock R32 GTR brakes, usually A disk front, O disk rear works.
    • Or, the height of the release bearing is not correct for your combo. Start with the bleeding and checking the slave moves throughout its range when you press the pedal (2 person required), but it is possible for the height to be internally wrong too (box back off to measure.
    • Yes, there's quite a few things that can go wrong during a clutch install. Very unlikely. I have a similar clutch. They (ACS) make good gear. No, it is not normal. It is possible that you just need to bleed the clutch slave. But the new clutch will also have a more aggressive actuation force/pressure, and so your old slave cylinder might be a bit leaky or otherwise compromised, and not up to the extra force required. Or the master cylinder, same.
    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
×
×
  • Create New...