Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'd be giving Turtle Wax Bug & Tar remover a shot first. Its safe on paint.

Just recently started using it on a shell I am prepping, gets heaps of stuff off from gaffer tape residue, through to cleaning up tar from the floorplan.

work in progress guys, lost motivation when it got too hot. Chris tried a cutting compound a clay bar today - took a bit of work but it came off. Going to investigate other methods for the rest of them.

got some wax and grease remover from Super creep auto, might try that....

  • 5 weeks later...

So 'in the wash' we now have...

Prepsol + Clay Bar + 2000 wet 'n dry + soap + cutting compound + mineral turpentine + turtle wax tar & bug remover + wax and grease remover + methylated spirits :woot:

...and oh yes, how could I forget; followed by wax :P

Hey Clint

Had something similar on my old 33 (From a seriously old Jap sticker). I used a cutting compound to remove, then a proper fine cutting compound to bring the clear back to perfect.

You know what I expect quality wise!

Haha, wish you had have given me the drum earlier, Rich!

I ended up using a combination of prepsol and wax and grease remover to soften up and remove the bulk of the residue. Then used a cutting compound (its called paint doctor and is pretty harsh) to get the stains out. Going to give the car a good wash and wax this weekend.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My apologies. I forgot we were talking about weird beard M series stuff. Had been talking elsewhere with someone about an R33 with similar subject and got confused.
    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
×
×
  • Create New...