Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Which makes it sound more like a flow issue, and not exhaust side as that tends to send temps up and hence detonate.

Which leaves valves, intake, leaks??, turbo, cam timing etc.

yep... 3.5" was made as 3" would not flow enough for 350kw+ so thats fine

turbos are in good nick...

cam timing... shouldnt be an issue if cams/cam gears are both standard??

leaks have been found and fixed

intake is new as we had to remove the AFMs due to the MAF less tune

which leaves valves I guess??

"peak power right now is at 6300... car just starts struggling to breath and loses power"

Sounds like an exact thing i had.. Drop a set of Tomei TypeB 9.15mm in. Ignore what everyone says about running standard cams and try again and you won't live to regret.

Everyone is always talking highly of Unigroup but i find the car's he tunes runs quite low power and they are only in RWD/2WD? Too safe of a tune perhaps? Who knows...

Don't think it's that much of a mystery mate.

I'd say it's due to the fact yavuz doesn't feed customers bullshit dyno graphs to keep them happy.

Get a figure from ur tuner then take it to Unigroup and get a real read out

can you please provide further details of your situation?? even the tuner said standard cams are perfect for -9s

yeh Yavuz only has a 2 wheel dyno so readings are in RWD... he does tune them to last so they might be slightly lower in power perhaps...

lol.. if you have a standard motor and you want to make 380-390kw i dont think especially with gt-ss sized turbos. i just think its a little too ambitious but thats just my opinion and from experience. I'd say 350-360max on eflex with a set of cams?

The problem i had was i couldnt get power above 6000rpm, put a set of cams in on a STANDARD motor and it brought the mid-top end straight up. You can feel the difference for the midrange-topend power.

With the 2wd readings, it should be higher than in 4wd. His readings are definitely lower, but as i said, who knows, everyone modifies their head different and it could just be that or as i said it could be his tuning too safely.

Don't think it's that much of a mystery mate.

I'd say it's due to the fact yavuz doesn't feed customers bullshit dyno graphs to keep them happy.

Get a figure from ur tuner then take it to Unigroup and get a real read out

lol.. did i say feed customers bullshit dyno graphs? all i said that he could be tuning his cars too safely?

Get a figure from you tuner and take it to unigroup to get a real read out? lol seriously dont be so ignorant. Each to their own then, but its just my opinion on what i've seen from other peoples dyno graphs tuned by unigroup :)

"Everyone is always talking highly of Unigroup but i find the car's he tunes runs quite low power and they are only in RWD/2WD?"

So you find that your not impressed with Yavuz's work? you look at a dyno graph power reading and becasue u think its a bit low you wonder why everyone talks so highly of him? dont be so ignorant

"Too safe of a tune perhaps?"

i realise this is a question, im sure Yavuz knows what "too safe" is

"Everyone is always talking highly of Unigroup but i find the car's he tunes runs quite low power and they are only in RWD/2WD?"

So you find that your not impressed with Yavuz's work? you look at a dyno graph power reading and becasue u think its a bit low you wonder why everyone talks so highly of him? dont be so ignorant

"Too safe of a tune perhaps?"

i realise this is a question, im sure Yavuz knows what "too safe" is

Biased much? Thats what i mean about being ignorant is because you are like the rest of the sheep on here and i can tell from your response. I am just trying to say that there are other tuners out there. E.g. JEM, Powertune, Unique Automotive. Not necessarily everyone on SAU has to go Unigroup though a lot of people on this forum goes to him because of people like you and N1GTR whom is always putting forward recommendations. Although those that do are happy with their work and i presume you are one of those guys who are?

In saying that, I am just saying i feel he tunes perhaps a little safe and thats why the power readings is a bit low for the mods on the cars he tunes. Thats all, nothing about him being a crap tuner or nothing. You put forward your recommendation and opinion and i gave mine.

Yavuz the smartest tuner i have met.

An engine will only make what it can make. But then different dyno's is like apples and oranges. My GTR made 296kw of yavuz's dyno and 296kw on the mainline i use.

Ive had plenty if customers come from other shops with really high dyno readouts, and first run on the mainline are

Down 30kw.

On 98 ron most engines are knock limited, so u can only push a motor to det then add a safety margin. Basically.

Well I made 340rwkw, 19psi on -9s on PULP

Stock cams.

Put the -5s on, 365rwkw @ 19psi

Both above 6000rpm, was 7500rpm or so.

No so sure stock cams are necessarily the issue if the cam gears are set right.

Well I made 340rwkw, 19psi on -9s on PULP

Stock cams.

Put the -5s on, 365rwkw @ 19psi

Both above 6000rpm, was 7500rpm or so.

No so sure stock cams are necessarily the issue if the cam gears are set right.

yep

something else is a foot!

I wanted full boost before 4k and was going to get cam gears but was assured i wouldnt need em.. and he did pull it off.. 25psi by 4k is pretty awesome..

They would have tried around 20psi... Id say it would have been around 310kw.. will check tomorrow

What dumps are you running??

When my engine was std (just cam gears) I was making 335kw at 22psi With my -9s

So I don't think springs are the issue there is a restriction somewhere

If you have std intercooler maybe check if there is pressure dropping through it, maybe in need of a clean??

As the std cooler is fine for the application

was going to get cam gears but was assured i wouldnt need em..

Never understood this. Cam gears are the best thing you can do apart from putting fuel in the car! (providing the guy tuning it knows what he is doing and spends the time setting them up)

What dumps are you running??

When my engine was std (just cam gears) I was making 335kw at 22psi With my -9s

So I don't think springs are the issue there is a restriction somewhere

If you have std intercooler maybe check if there is pressure dropping through it, maybe in need of a clean??

As the std cooler is fine for the application

standard dumps

your springs were working fine... mine appear to be screwed

the bolt ons have been check, checked again then checked one more time... he has eliminated them as the issue

Never understood this. Cam gears are the best thing you can do apart from putting fuel in the car! (providing the guy tuning it knows what he is doing and spends the time setting them up)

yeh i dont think PT use them very often... im still very happy with the response.. on paper at least... will drive it tomorrow

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...