Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bit of a noob question but it needs to be asked.

Just realized when checking my tire pressure that I have two different sets of tires on my car, Playz PZ-1s on the left, and Playz PZ-X on the right...

Now I've been having issues with the left hand side, been thinking it was baring but Chris at Centerline in thomastown wasn't sure, said it might be tires as he was finding it difficult to get sound off the car when he lifted it.

Could that actually be apart of the problem?

It seems bizarre to me in the first place to put two rather different treads on either side of the car as wouldn't one side grip differently than the other?

I'm going to swap the PZ-Xs to the back tomorrow at my mate's as they seem to be in much better condition, the PZ-1s seem to be cracking at the edge of the treads.

Anyway, thoughts, ideas, experiences, insight?

Thanks,

Teir.

P.S,

If anyone generally knows what the difference between the Bridgestone Playz PZ-X and PZ-1s is that'd be good to know as well, they seem to both have rather different tread patterns.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/387766-different-treads-either-side/
Share on other sites

I was under the impression that it's illegal to have 2 different tyres on the front? Or maybe that's on front wheel drives. And perhaps it would be better to put the best tyres on the front and the not so goods on the rear. Braking and steering is more important than going.

But hey... I'm still a noob.:rolleyes:

Edited by Not a Pulsar

oh that sucks....someone who owned your car in the past didn't give a shit about it :(

you definately want the same tyres on either side of the same axle....it might be expensive but I also always replace mine in pairs. The car must be consistent between left and right grip.

oh that sucks....someone who owned your car in the past didn't give a shit about it :(

you definately want the same tyres on either side of the same axle....it might be expensive but I also always replace mine in pairs. The car must be consistent between left and right grip.

It wasn't the last owner, it was Pedders who put them like that after repairing some accident damage 6+ months ago.

I never realized because they have practically the exact same logos on them in the same spots etc.

I was under the impression that it's illegal to have 2 different tyres on the front? Or maybe that's on front wheel drives.

It's a RWC requirement that each wheel on the same axle is the same make / brand / size / tread design. So, front tyres must be the same as each other, and rear tyres must be the same as each other, but front and rear don't have to be the same as each other.

Well then I've been driving risking a canary for the last 6+ months. Awesome. Thanks Pedders!

And to vareify as "Not a Pulsar" mentioned above, having a RWD would it be better to have the better looking tiers at the front or back? I was thinking the back as you want the traction on the running wheels.

OK. This is Australia, so we spell tyres with a y, not an i, and not as "tiers", which is the pulral of tier meaning "a level". Secondly, Better tyres alway go on the most important end of the car, which is the end that does the braking and STEERING. Thirdly, just pump them up to 34 psi and take it for a drive in the twisties. Then add 2 psi and do it again, then again. If it keeps getting better as you add pressure, then you should probably stop at about 38 psi. If it doesn't get better with more pressure, try less pressure. But FWIW, I generally use 32 psi or thereabout is normal tyres on boring cars, and upwards of 34 in good tyres on good cars. 38 psi in KU36s on R32.

OK. This is Australia, so we spell tyres with a y, not an i, and not as "tiers", which is the pulral of tier meaning "a level". Secondly, Better tyres alway go on the most important end of the car, which is the end that does the braking and STEERING. Thirdly, just pump them up to 34 psi and take it for a drive in the twisties. Then add 2 psi and do it again, then again. If it keeps getting better as you add pressure, then you should probably stop at about 38 psi. If it doesn't get better with more pressure, try less pressure. But FWIW, I generally use 32 psi or thereabout is normal tyres on boring cars, and upwards of 34 in good tyres on good cars. 38 psi in KU36s on R32.

I THOUGHT IT WAS TYRES! The f**kin auto correct kept disagreeing with me -_-

And I guess front it is!

As for pressure thanks for the tip, I'll start playing with it after I move them around. It's a 34 25gt but no one knows what the f**k the tyres are, if they're performance or not so just a matter of experimenting, thanks!

32 psi = R32

33 psi = R33

34 psi = R34 etc... pinch.gif

Front sounds like a good plan my man and if the bad ones are that bad, replace them asap and switch them all around again. ie new on front, old on back.

Edited by Not a Pulsar

Also, since I can't find anything on the net and there's no markings on the tiers does anyone know what I should be pumping my tiers upto?

255/45/17 Playz PZ-1

&

255/45/17 Playz PZ-X

The tyre installer should be able to recommend the best pressure. FWIW, my local Bob Janes suggested I run 38psi my Falken ZE912s (235/45x17).

It's a RWC requirement that each wheel on the same axle is the same make / brand / size / tread design. So, front tyres must be the same as each other, and rear tyres must be the same as each other, but front and rear don't have to be the same as each other.

Not so in nsw, they only have to be of the same construction on each axle, either radial, or cross ply.

Treads can differ, its just highly recommended that you don't.

  • 4 weeks later...

I'm someone who even hates having different brands on different axles... Makes the cars wander around if there is the slightest difference in how the different tyres are made.

+1 here, you should always try and run the same tread all round. The reason being that having a space saver spare means at some point you will need to put a rear on the front because you shouldnt put a space saver on the front. This is also why mixed fitments is a dumb idea

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
    • You have a knack for photography my friend. It makes the 86 look like a complete bucket. The 34 went with you to Europe and back. It's special. (we all feel the same about our 'shitboxes' that every bystander seems to absolutely love)
×
×
  • Create New...