Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 177
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Great work mate!!! That come out awesome!!!!

My wifes previous M35 Axis going back over 13months, was too a repairable write off. Ins paid out and sold it off at Pickles Auctions.

Had identical LHS front damage to yours. Sold for a bit much at the auctions....so I imported my current Axis.

Once again great result. Now you must hold onto it for a while....

Nah im actually going to sell it once its all finished and regoed. going to import a series 2, 2005 autech, pearl white, sun roof/duel. only because i cant drive turbo's on my ps otheriwse i would keep it. i also LOVE the brown interiors in those autechs!

Edited by adambruv

Nah im actually going to sell it once its all finished and regoed. going to import a series 2, 2005 autech, pearl white, sun roof/duel. only because i cant drive turbo's on my ps otheriwse i would keep it. i also LOVE the brown interiors in those autechs!

Just keep it dude I drove it on my p's for god knows how long with no issues, at the end of the day it's a wagon, it's nearing one of the last things cops worry about

not sure about laws up there. but I'm in vic, and im power hungry as with scott.

if anyone was to get pulled up it wouldve been me on my P's especially in vic. mine was also dropped on its ass with showy wheels.

pic for reference

4k7a4z.png

f**k i miss it

Edited by Sunkist

Nah im actually going to sell it once its all finished and regoed. going to import a series 2, 2005 autech, pearl white, sun roof/duel. only because i cant drive turbo's on my ps otheriwse i would keep it. i also LOVE the brown interiors in those autechs!

Series 2 M35 is much nicer than Series 1 M35.

Costs more to get power out of though :(

cosworth brings the minus powers in NA form. FI its the goods apparently.

dont we all need dollars to make things "better"? lol.

I was surprised how economical my conversion was to be honest. As with anything, if you do your research and shop around, do work yourself, and have good contacts - you'll get it done lots cheaper and without the BS that goes with just handing over a car and saying "Do X to it"

not sure about laws up there. but I'm in vic, and im power hungry as with scott.

if anyone was to get pulled up it wouldve been me on my P's especially in vic. mine was also dropped on its ass with showy wheels.

pic for reference

4k7a4z.png

f**k i miss it

I like. What sort of grill is that? looks interesting.

yeh. about $100 from IM +ship they are gel coated white, so i just took to it with a spray can.

I think this grille, and craigs are the best after market ones around. i scored mine off jethro for installing his Trans cooler lol

yeh. about $100 from IM +ship they are gel coated white, so i just took to it with a spray can.

I think this grille, and craigs are the best after market ones around. i scored mine off jethro for installing his Trans cooler lol

Were you familiar with the grill that was on Iain's car?

That is a damn good looking grill IMO and can be found on Yahoo.

IainsM35aero.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...