Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nasty crash and good to see the guy was ok afterwards.

I have had my front suspension break after coming over the bridge at Oran park before, no rolling off the road but i reckon if it happened at speed on the straight i would be in the same boat and just a passenger.These were tein coil overs so it can really happen in any car either kit or something you buy from a major manufacturer.

I also was driving a car "somewhere" where we had been doing top speed runs in a 350kw light weight car and as i slow down and take a corner, the rear toe arm snaps and i come to a tire smoking spinning stop.

Just be careful to use quality parts and check over things regularly especially if you take it to the track often. Don't give up on your dream as i reckon building a kit car would be awesome :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Ultima is genuinely on my one day list of things. I have the bucket R32 fun club car. Now have the Sierra Cosworth to break down on me and leave me stranded in places. Now I just need a big house/garage to move on to one more project before the Ultima. That is getting a gig in Europe and bringing back the uber personal import :)

Likewise a bucket list item for me too. The recent engineering rule changes in NSW may put an end to that though which will be a shame.

Nothing too wild, just the basic kit, silver gel coat, black interior, AP brakes, 6.2L Chev engine around 300rwkw will be plenty

Always loved this pic speaking of Ultima's;

672%20Ultima%20GTR.jpg

If you look around you might be able to pick up someone else's 1/2 finished Caterham project. You'd be surprised how many people start projects like these and just leave them un-finished in a shed. You can pick them up cheap once they have been sitting a few years.

That Corvette is pretty cool. I love Vettes, but know them well enough to know many are garbage. From memory the 84 Vette has 185hp :( And being the first of C4s they are pretty rubbish. 89 - 94 is what I would be after.

But the biggest problem is housing prices in Aus, I cant afford a house for the toys :) Hence the plan to get to Europe with work, get the dream car. Import dream car and then when in 4-5 years when I am around 40 build a Caterham with S2000 running gear or Ultima, depending on cash, and what my 22yr old Russian bride prefers :)

yer, the emission regulations really hurt those Corvette , most people just take them off and be dune with them.

most cops have never seen a Corvette so it's not like a skyline.

If anybody is after a pretty well sorted Clubman, check this out;

Clubman

A friend is selling it. Makes 130rwk, weighs 550kg, does easy 1:08's at Wakefield and will go quicker.

Only reason for selling is that he bought a brand new one.... a MNR with a 'turbocharged' Hyabusa engine, dry sump, sequential box, digital dash etc = 220rwk and 500kg!!!

BTW if you contact me first, we can definitely do something about the price to make it very attractive...

Edited by SRS13

Has anyone looked at the STOHR vehicles? www.apracing.net.au

They look impressive for a track only option.

Anyone got an idea around cost? I see the closed wheel version also 'for lease' on my105...

Stohr's are quick, Adam Proctor won the Sports Racer series in his this year, however he had all of the best gear on his car (it won the DSR championship in the USA the previous year) and it had a modified motor when the Speads and the West's ran stock motors.

I have heard from people who run them and race against them in the States that they are somewhat more fragile than the West's and the Speads, as everything on the car has been reduced to the minimum size needed, and there are a number of parts like rod ends that are considered throw away items in the car.

  • 2 weeks later...

To be honest if you wished to walk the path of making a kit car, you couldn't get a batter start then Caterham (there are plenty of companies within australia that sell very nice replica kits for much cheaper). I've used to work for a mob that built them for the road and track and they are just awsome, they are very simple to put together with many people out there who will be more then willing to lend a hand, especially if you start getting some track time.

There are a few reasons why you should build a caterham well before trying to build something more crazy like an ultima/cobra/gt40, this is because it's relatively cheap to throw together (so if you give up like many others you haven't lost much), it will give you a very good understanding of what it takes to build a truely balanced vehicle, and it may very well be so much fun that you won't even want to move to something more expensive.

You have a large amount of engines to choose from depending on what you want, be it a nice NA like a 4AGE (a very common choice), or maybe something turbocharged like a SR20, or supercharged like a 4AGZE, or just go all crazy like and throw a Rotary in there. Actually there isn't many things you cant change on this car depending on what you want....

All in all i highly suggest you go for the caterham, then sell if off if you want more and then move onto your next project.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...