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But in saying that backyard builds vs workshop builds. There is only one way to put together a bottom end. The correct way. Regardless if its a glamorous workshop with tip top race cars or somebody in a shed such as d'anallo performance who has a rb25 30 running into the 8s. Quality workmanship is quality workmanship.

My theory on a workshop is. If you're going to open a workshop you should know how to build an engine properly as a minimum. You learn how to do that in your 4th year of trade school. Iv had bad experiences with a certain shop that did an abortion of a job on my car. I basically redid all their work to how I wanted it and its yet to fail me (still using a stock bottom end). And all that work was done off a hoist in a small garage.

I do agree with you on experience. Trial and error plays a big part when pushing the limits.

I still don't understand why "professionals" can't do the job that they're payed for correctly. We as customers pay the 100% price yet we dont get 100% effort or quality. Same goes with "tuners" what irritates me is some workshops won't put as much effort or care in a tune if you built it elsewhere and braught it for a tune yet they will go to the moon and back when you have them build you an overpriced engine. Work should be done 100% regardless of where the car came from.

Won't name any famous tuning shops, but I've seen for myself copy and paste tunes across similar cars.... and funny how "they were all tuned from scratch" ra ra ra.. and tuned the cold start, etc... car probably saw about 15 minutes of dyno time and copy and paste of a bin file... $1100 later, see you bye.

Spend less time dealing with workshop lies and empty promises and more time tearing it up.

On another note. If the stock quality is so awesome why are so many rb 26s failing due to oil starvation? Or any engine for that matter? Not saying its poor quality. But saying a built engine with all the trimmings is/can be a lot better.

A lot of this is attributed to people putting sticky tyres on them, doing a number of hotlaps and pulling massive lateral g's

A lot of this is attributed to people putting sticky tyres on them, doing a number of hotlaps and pulling massive lateral g's

So modifications would need to be made to suit the application. Like baffled sumps and what not. Always room for improvement. If those mods were made prior to raping the car on the track would the stock internals last? Edited by LTHLRB

So modifications would need to be made to suit the application. Like baffled sumps and what not. Always room for improvement. If those mods were made prior to raping the car on the track would the stock internals last?

far better chance i'd say

nissan didn't design the car to be exiting corners at well over 100 kph with R comps on all 4 paws after 10 hotlaps

the oil pickup isn't even in the centre of the sump lol

  • 2 weeks later...

1998 r34 gtt 4 door sedan fact manul.

Rb25det neo

Pon b cams

Pfc

Walbro 416 LPH pump

E85

Gtx 3076r . 82 machined out int gate

Uprated actuator

Split fire coils

4" dump into twin front pipes(120mm) in hks super silent exhaust with hi flow cat

Standard clutch

Made 325rwkw 20psi wheel spinning due to using 10" wide super sticky dun lops on 40 psi, dropped to 20 psi but were still way to hot.

Next is upgrade clutch and change rears then up boost

Rb25

Etm manifold gt3582 with t04z wheel and highflowed 4inch exhaust

Microtech lt16

Spitfire coils

Forward facing plenum

850cc injectors 2x 044

Process west 96mm thick cooler

Jim berry full Monty clutch

Eboost 2

Didn't make the dyno only street tuned and cracked ring lan and ripped engine mount apart

Edited by paul_psi

could you tell something was broken and what had caused it, eg boost/revs or both? im bit confused when mine happened cause even on 5 good cylinders it was pulling hard still, just idling rough.

Edited by AngryRB

so is forged pistons the only answer to breaking ring lands? planning rb30det ( 9.5:1 and 3076) and want to be confident I wont break another ring land. I don't like piston slap so forgies not ideal for a street car..

Edited by AngryRB

Keeping the cylinder pressure low and knock under control would help with extending the stock piston's life. Even ethanol can't remove detonation, especially as the temps start to rise.

Piston slap shouldn't happen if you choose the right piston materials, as long as the bore is machined correctly.

Hey guys.

Im making 425 at the rears in my GTX3582R setup.

Neo cams kinda look gay on paper, is it worth upgrading them for when I go e85? I'm looking to make 500 on a stock motor and head gasket.

Hey guys.

Im making 425 at the rears in my GTX3582R setup.

Neo cams kinda look gay on paper, is it worth upgrading them for when I go e85? I'm looking to make 500 on a stock motor and head gasket.

As in the duration? cos the lift is higher. Remember that they are solid lifters so can run a more aggressive ramp rate for a better overall result, so not as bad as they seem. Edited by superben

so is forged pistons the only answer to breaking ring lands? planning rb30det ( 9.5:1 and 3076) and want to be confident I wont break another ring land. I don't like piston slap so forgies not ideal for a street car..

Depends on the cause, if you have knock then you'll still break them they just might take 6 months instead of 3 months to snap. If you are breaking them due to genuine high cylinder pressures eg 3-400kw then they will help, though broken ring lands in these motors are almost always due to knock, you might have an issue that doesn't show up during dyno time that is causing the problem.

Piston slap with forgies is only due to big clearances, it is a tight call between slap and the piston siezing, just make sure the expansion coefficients of the pistons aren't too excessive and then you can run tighter tolerances, maybe give RIPS or race-pace a call and see what they recommend piston wise (and clearance) for minimal slap.

Hey guys.

Im making 425 at the rears in my GTX3582R setup.

Neo cams kinda look gay on paper, is it worth upgrading them for when I go e85? I'm looking to make 500 on a stock motor and head gasket.

It's probably worth the upgrade if it's a number you are chasing as the only other options are even bigger turbo's or more boost

depends on which cams really

I just didn't want to go E85 and not make the most of it by not having the suipporting mods.

I'd rather have something that comes onto boost harder in the mid range than chase a specific peak number,

  • 2 months later...

Stock RB25DET (head bolts, head gasket, internals)

hks 256/264 cams and ex cam gear

nismo 740cc injectors

apexi pfc with a z32

garrett gt3076 .82 turbo with tial 44mm gate

GTR intercooler

Greddy plenum

Tomei 500hp lift pump with a 044 feed

Nismo fuel reg

23psi and BP Ultimate

BIG thanks to Trent and Cat from Chequered Tuning. Glad to see there are still legit people in the Auto industry.

post-22302-0-88815000-1392286122_thumb.jpg

Edited by LTHLRB
  • Like 1

sl2ss2comps.jpg

R33 Rb25det Stock engine

Brae exhaust manifold

HPVA 50mm external gate

HyperGear SLSS2 Turbocharger

600x300x75mm Intercooler kit

3inches turbo back exhaust

1000CC injectors

Power FC

E85 Fuel

car.jpg

Final result of 356rwkws @ 20psi

slss2power.jpg

slss2boost.jpg

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    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
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