Jump to content
SAU Community

Trojan Motorsport

Mitcho_7

By Mitcho_7,
in Australian Capital Territory

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

D.I.Y. Mik Veteran

D.I.Y. Mik

Posted
Posted

I went there once looking for parts and the guy tried to sell me a chewed blown radiator for $100, i went up the road and asked a radiator guy how much do they cost to fix that kind of damage, $700.

Glad i kept my money.

DJBarnstar Experienced

DJBarnstar

Posted
Posted (edited)

OK, For the Fanboys I'll keep it PC as my last post was deleted even though it was pretty tame and ambiguos.

This was just over 6 Yrs ago, and those that know me, know I have had a lot of experience with fast cars.

- Took my very expensive and heavily modified N1 spec (Not a real N1 but spec'd to that level) R32 GTR with slight oil leaking into the coolant. (N1 turbos, Cams, Forgies, Suspension, Clutch lightened flywheel, Wolf 3D, new head, all the extras inc $1500 Sound System) and was told Yes, we can help you!

- Patiently waited for months for it to be fixed even though I needed it for work and had to make my partner get the bus, (I took her car). Yes she loved that..... NOT!

- Called, Called and Called to see how it was going... I need this car back on the road.

- No business like response was given apart from we will get there, and all sorts of excuses.

- Approximatly 6 months in I called again and was given an offer (from memory) of $13,500 for the car un-running in the same condition as I had left it except with the bonnet taken off, parts of it taken off and a lot more dust.

- As you can imagine I was under a lot of pressure from my partner and was in the process of moving so I took it... Pressure even to the point that the owner of the business came to the bank I had loaned the money from, and kept hassling me about how much I owed on it and should take that.

- I naively did, to buy another running car to suit our 2 person working Canberra family.

- I would never go back there.

That is my experience. As I said before, take from that what you will.

I'll probably get flamed for this post, but this industry and some operators need to realise that we NEED our cars when they say, not just when it suits them. If I ran my business like a lot of the motor repair industy I wouldn't have a job. Sure they are just 2 Guys as stated above, but if they are then why take on Jobs they know they can't complete???

Edited by DJBarnstar
Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted

I don't disagree that performance shops need to be held accountable. I have found they are mainly missmanaged in these following areas.

1. Over booking work (Management issue)

2. Under/Over estimating effort and parts (skill/experience)

3. Learning on the job with our cars (skill/experience)

4. Not customer focussed (don't listen and don't call back)

5. Do not stand by their work (ie: they defend their mistakes)

6. DO NOT set customer expectations well.

7. Are only professionals until they get you booked in.

It's always a struggle unless they care for your car nearly as much as you do.

CeJay Grand Master

CeJay

Posted
Posted

My main beef is when your made to feel like your doing the shop a favour by taking your car their, and in one case, I'm not going to say which local shop, getting the car back in a far worse condition drive line wise than when it was dropped off,. I only had that issue sorted by getting the car put on a car carrier and taken to Sydney and having the car sorted by a shop up there. No one could diagnose the issue here, and of course what people were diagnosing the issue as here, turned out to be nowhere near what the issue actually was. Of course I was thousands of dollars out of pocket sorting it out, and having the car off the road for two months, and the local shop denied everything.

That's why I'm a fan of going to Sydney.

You can get good work done here of course, but buyer beware.

a20089 Veteran

a20089

Posted
Posted

Don't judge on what you haven't seen either. - too true

Most places will gladly take your money for big or small jobs. - Again so true

Sometimes it's worth just paying once to have something done right. - If I could find someone who could do everything right first go, I'd be a lot more happy.

Any out of town workshop is a risk in having to go back for any reason. $100+ in fuel each trip to Sydney and back.

5hiv Rising Star

5hiv

Posted
Posted

I have been going to trojan for more than 2 years and i will continue going over there as long as they are operating. The only people whom i trust to leave my car with :thumbsup:

Customer service is always good and work done on the car are just unbelievable, john is the guru of skylines and imports.

i wont mind if they take a whole year to finish something on my car because i know time and effort has gone into it and the end results are always great. John and Angelo's time and effort in fixing any car is highly appreciated

staticc Collaborator

staticc

Posted
Posted

The problem with this argument is that we all have our own opinions. And our own experiences with different shops. So some will agree and some won't.

There is no right or wrong way to go about what shop you choose.

Mitcho_7 Mentor

Mitcho_7

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Agree with kasko about the where to get my car serviced comment. I originally just wanted to know why Trojan wouldn't answer the phone and turns out they were on holidays, but are open again now...

I have probably contributed to getting the thread off topic though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...