Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This hasn't been updated lately, but as it stands at the moment the fastest is a 260rs with a 12.3 then Darren spencer's rs with 13.01 then my 260 with a 13.2

The fastest so far in here is 11.3...hasn't be updated for a long time

According to my Google search, a S2 C34 with RB25DET came with 173Kw at the engine. 12 years later it has 155awKw - only 18Kw loss thru the drivetrain. Is that possible, even with a manual transmission? I suspect some Walt Disney optimism at play, lol.

Nice car tho. I like them in yellow.

S2 c34 had the rb25detNEO, so 206kw from the factory.

Most stock stags lay down around the 135-150kw depending on manual/auto awkw/rwkw.

1996 s1 with a manual and a neo engine conversion.nistune, 3076r, poncams etc etc e85. just need to sort out the old girl so she holds boost, new waste spring and clean up tune under the curve and should be even better but already she is fun shopping wagon.

post-76904-0-37625900-1353412131_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Sydney Motor Sport Park - South Circuit.

1:14.77 - (34*C with stock brakes and hawk ceramic pads - also overheating) lol

was good fun but took it easy on the brakes could only do 2 lap sprints before i needed to do a cool down lap as i could smell the brakes HAHA

and definately need some semi slicks rather than the federal 595's!!!

then i'd feel much more confident in the car but i learnt alot and the car handled beautifully otherwise!!!

  • 3 weeks later...

this thread needs a update

1998 Stagea 260RS

407.4 HP (303KW) @ 20PSI on caltex 98 safe daily driver tune

post-86035-0-99721900-1356010495_thumb.jpg

Congrats excellent job but she is fun to drive .

And yes this thread really needs an update lol...

Congrats excellent job but she is fun to drive .

And yes this thread really needs an update lol...

Thanks mate, it definately starts to come alive with 300kw! The 4wd is starting to work a bit harder now.

When is ur's going back in for a touch up?

When i get off my butt . Bit busy with our new baby. Got to change waste gate spring and sort the boost controler out get it to hold stable then turn it up to around 20 ish psi. Also got water/meth injection to hook up basicially to lowr exhaust temps should be interesting to see what she make. Dont think my gear box is going to like it hmmm

  • 2 weeks later...

this thread needs a update

1998 Stagea 260RS

407.4 HP (303KW) @ 20PSI on caltex 98 safe daily driver tune

post-86035-0-99721900-1356010495_thumb.jpg

We really really need some "more" m35s to make some power then this thread might get updated lol....... oh no did i just say that

OK, updated doc sent to mods for updating the 1st page.

some of the figures (power) weren't high enough to bump the next person off.

Remember - keep posting in here, so its easy to update when I CBF.

  • 2 years later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Well finally got round to re tuning stagea after all these years ( to busy working on customers cars ) ( and the shops s15)

Old tune 338rwkw 311awkw at 19 psi

New tune 360-370rwkw 340.1 awkw

Still the same standard neo bottom end and small 3076.63 all standard manifolds and return flow cooler , video is of Chris and my self doing a 3rd gear pull 335 awkw 4th gear is 340 awkw @27psi

  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...