Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

I have a R32 GTR and the rear subframe is a bit out of whack and just wanted to know if the later model R33 and R34 GTR subframes a direct fit or do the bushes need to be offset. Is there issues with the overall track measurement are they different? I know the r33 and r34 lower control arms have the mounts in different position to stop the suspension binding up under hard launches. Just wanted to know if this is possible or has been done before otherwise i'll just find out and try myself.

Cheers

Benny

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/389684-r33-gtr-rear-subframe-into-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

How did you go? Any further development? I know of cars that have 33 and 34 GTR rear subframes but not sure of the differences. Can anyone tell me what the advantages are? More detail than "better geometry" cos I've heard that already.

I have an R32 GTSt and keep breaking driveshafts on launches with sticky tyres. If there is more than the benifit of not breaking shafts then it might be worthwhile.

Here is a link to offset bushes made by a SAU member.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/376533-offset-alloy-subframe-bushes-for-installing-33-cradle-into-32/page__p__6006841__fromsearch__1#entry6006841

If you're just worried about breaking axles I have a 32GTR diff and 6 x 1 axles in my Stagea with the stock subframe. The abs sensors were changed over and there was a bit of stuffing round to mount the attessa pump but if you don't have the Atessa then it should be easy for you.

If you're just worried about breaking axles I have a 32GTR diff and 6 x 1 axles in my Stagea with the stock subframe. The abs sensors were changed over and there was a bit of stuffing round to mount the attessa pump but if you don't have the Atessa then it should be easy for you.

Nah I don't mind breaking shafts. They're a 30 min changeover most of the time (if spline is ok) and cheap. If there is big benifit in grip for my car (mostly circuit racing) then I would do it with the benifit of stronger shafts.

Offset bushes are one way of doing the job.

I don't use them though

The last one I did ( as well as 90% of the other ones)

Was to press out the old bushes which can be a nightmare and cut the actual subframe. The ends are re shaped and then re welded back on.

I do it this way for a few reasons.

By cutting the mounts off I can sit the subframe in the jig and adjust the pro/anti squat depending on the vehicle.

It makes machining subframe shims so much easier. If you really get stuck and need them interstate etc you can so just use a normal washer.

In some categories it's possible to tell that the subframe is modified or not factory fitted.

I machine centered alloy bushes or just refit aftermarket ones.

The bushes I machine also have some minor geometry changes.

R33 has some minor improvements at the lower control arm prodimimatly to do with squat angles.

R33 has some minor improvements at the lower control arm prodimimatly to do with squat angles.

Thanks Brad. Sounds like you're the guy that knows. Do you think a 33 subframe is of much benifit for a 2wd time attack car like mine?

It's a step in the right direction for sure.

Obviously a high powered RWD is going to benefit from more pro squat to gain traction. But it's a fine line to get traction without losing forward drive. The more the rear end squats the less forward drive you have despite the added traction.

One way is to use the r33 subframe. Or alternatively modify the R33 pick up points subtly by cutting the mounts off at the subframe and doing a cut and shut. They look 100% factory when done properly

It's a step in the right direction for sure.

Obviously a high powered RWD is going to benefit from more pro squat to gain traction. But it's a fine line to get traction without losing forward drive. The more the rear end squats the less forward drive you have despite the added traction.

One way is to use the r33 subframe. Or alternatively modify the R33 pick up points subtly by cutting the mounts off at the subframe and doing a cut and shut. They look 100% factory when done properly

Thanks for the advice. Sounds like if I want to take it further a trip to sydney is in order haha.

  • 9 months later...

figure i'd post in here and not post up a new thread

looking at specific info for rear squat ( more rear grip) angles, so from what i've read if the front of the rear subframe is lower ( further away from the chassis rails) and the back of the subframe is higher ( as close as possible to the chassis rails) this will gain better grip on take off, does this also apply to cornering and drifting or only on take off/drags ?

:)

It's a step in the right direction for sure.

Obviously a high powered RWD is going to benefit from more pro squat to gain traction. But it's a fine line to get traction without losing forward drive. The more the rear end squats the less forward drive you have despite the added traction.

One way is to use the r33 subframe. Or alternatively modify the R33 pick up points subtly by cutting the mounts off at the subframe and doing a cut and shut. They look 100% factory when done properly

whats the benefits vs cost in this perspective?

in the near future i will be looking at getting power to the ground tho im sure that offset bushes and a decent suspension will be just as good aslong as you are getting the alignment correct

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

Bringing up an old thread.

When installing an R33 GTR subframe into a R32 GTR, what things need to be changed over from r32 to r33?

Am I right in thinking that an r33 gtr subframe will bolt straight on to r32 gtr by using subframe bushes that you use to install s14 subframe into s13.

Any help would be great.

Thanks

  • 3 months later...

I've been doing some searching regarding the R33 subframe into an R32. It seems to be more of a drag racing modification. What I gather is that the anti-squat properties of the R33 subframe aid in the launch of the car (i.e. acceleration when exiting a corner). Is that right?

I don't drag race. I road race, will the R33 subframe benefit me during cornering? I mean, does it offer better neutral steering balance, better body control, etc?

At this point, I think Ill benefit more by keeping my BNR32s subframe (change bushings) and purchasing bigger sways and sophisticated coilovers.

Can someone help me out?

the rear end will grip better, while cornering etc and in a straight line. one difference is the way the lower control arm mounts are angled... with the r32 subframe the control arms are on a angle( one control mount is higher then the other) while the r33 is almost straight

gk tech have r32/13 to s14/r33 conversion alloy subframe raisers in stock

Edited by Dan_J

the rear end will grip better, while cornering etc and in a straight line. one difference is the way the lower control arm mounts are angled... with the r32 subframe the control arms are on a angle( one control mount is higher then the other) while the r33 is almost straight

 

gk tech have r32/13 to s14/r33 conversion alloy subframe raisers in stock

In that case, would I have to use R33 rear suspension bits or is my BNR32 suspension gonna work with the upgraded subframe?

Sent from my SC-03D

r32 suspension will work but will need to slip in a lil washer for the lower control arms as r33 bushes are slightly wider

 

- unsure about the hi-cas interchangeability though

Apparently, the LCA, UCA and Tie Rods should be swapped for R33 components as well. The differentials and drive shafts fit even though there's 2 bracket holes instead of the 4 (for the BNR32 diff).

I'm still concerned with the axles. I think I'll need BCNR33 axles since the member is wider.

is that right?

Sent from my SC-03D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...