Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommendation Of Mechanic/workshop To Modify Turbo/exhaust Setup

jakez88

By jakez88,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

jakez88 Veteran

jakez88

Posted
Posted

hey guys i need to be pointed in the right direction for a mechanic or workshop in the western suburbs that can change up/modify my turbo and exhaust set up on my r32 gtst. at the moment i have a hypergear atr43 g3 .63 on a highmount manifold with a external wastegate. i know that these turbos can be mounted onto the standard r32 manifolds and this is what i want to do but in saying that i will also need to modify the standard manifold for the external gate if this is correct? are there any other recommendations for my setup? it will be getting tuned to make hopefully 250 and up kw on something like 18psi.

can anyone recommend a place in the west where this can be done along with the installation of my full exhaust system? does anyone know roughly how much it would cost? dont have the know how or tools to do it myself so would rather let a professional do it properly.

any help appreciated.

jakez88 Veteran

jakez88

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Lol in proper sau fashion.

So you are saying all those workshops can weld and modify my standard exhaust manifold to suit my turbosmart external gate? Also a rough idea on how much something like this costs?

gtsttrk Mentor

gtsttrk

Posted
Posted

Rather than posting another topic though I'd ask here.

Does 300 to get a cat and split dump installed seem expensive? Gt quoted that today so I am going to ring around tomorrow and get some more regardless. Just interested to hear what you guys have to say.

jakez88 Veteran

jakez88

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Rather than posting another topic though I'd ask here.

Does 300 to get a cat and split dump installed seem expensive? Gt quoted that today so I am going to ring around tomorrow and get some more regardless. Just interested to hear what you guys have to say.

thats way too expensive man. i got a full exhaust system put in for $150.

gtsttrk Mentor

gtsttrk

Posted
Posted

thats way too expensive man. i got a full exhaust system put in for $150.

Cheers mate that's exactly what I thought. Where abouts did you get yours done?

Spunky Munky Grand Master

Spunky Munky

Posted
Posted

There's an exhaust place near Highpoint shopping centre. Guys there did a good job but I supplied my own exhaust but fitment was quick and good. I think it cost me $100 for welding.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Rather than posting another topic though I'd ask here.

Does 300 to get a cat and split dump installed seem expensive? Gt quoted that today so I am going to ring around tomorrow and get some more regardless. Just interested to hear what you guys have to say.

Im in the south east so its probably too far for you anyway.

It would depend on the job unfortunately, if your exhaust isnt rusty and there are no cracked/rusted studs on the turbo it may still take 3 hours to do the job. There is a fair bit of work getting the dump off and on again and the wastegate puck could foul causing headaches with a split dump. It realy depends what sort of job you want too, like some places wont clean up the inside after welding or will reuse smaller flanges restricting what you thought was a nice 3 inch exhaust.

Generally performance workshops I have been to charge around $100 or more an hour. >_<

gtsttrk Mentor

gtsttrk

Posted
Posted

Im in the south east so its probably too far for you anyway.

It would depend on the job unfortunately, if your exhaust isnt rusty and there are no cracked/rusted studs on the turbo it may still take 3 hours to do the job. There is a fair bit of work getting the dump off and on again and the wastegate puck could foul causing headaches with a split dump. It realy depends what sort of job you want too, like some places wont clean up the inside after welding or will reuse smaller flanges restricting what you thought was a nice 3 inch exhaust.

Generally performance workshops I have been to charge around $100 or more an hour. >_<

Thanks mate really appreciate the detail and info given:) Really helped me out! Think I'll just bite the dust and take te plunge, after all the place that quoted me that does some

Very good work. I'm not really into the idea of going cheap and cutting corners!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...