Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, I suspect the answers to these are deep within the forums somewhere, so please take pity on my busyness/lazyness and help me out with three simple questions.

Im planning to boost my R33.

1, What is the max pressure I can safely boost my R33 RB25DET?

2, At what boost level should I expect fuel cut to kick in? (ie, without a fuel cut defender, how high can I go without trouble?)

3, What power increase should I see (before and after approximate power if you know).

and (4) anything else to consider ?

My car is a manual turbo R33 RB25DET with pod filter, turbo back exhaust and R34 intercooler.

thanks heaps

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Boost is just a number but generally on stock comp with stock turbo 10 otherwise it's will miss and go no where. If you where to get a ecu then turn the boost up you will see around the 200 mark with stock turbo

2 & 3: anyone's guess. some people can go 10Psi no worries. i could only get 8psi. power wise depends as well. while you got a stock ecu id just do the high boost (constant 7psi) mod and be done with it. Get an aftermarket ecu then boost to 12psi and as said you will get up near 200rwkw

OK, so Im getting the picture that with my stock ecu, stock turbo I can set my boost from the current 7 to 10 and that should run alright, ie no fuel cut, no bullshit. No one mentioned it, but I hear the stock turbo should shoot out the exhaust at around 12psi, so I guess 10 will be safe for that. This is correct? also

What power do we think my car has now (stock turbo, ecu, R34 intercooler, turbo back exhaust)?

And what might it have on 10psi? how will power delivery/feeling change with this boost up?

I wanna know as I have about 8 weeks left living in Japan and I wanna know if I can safely up the power without killing anything before I ship the car back. paying for mechanical drama would be very bad, as moneys to tight to mention. OK, yeah, I just dont wanna have to budget mechanical failure. I also wanna know if it would be worth it, value for money wise. I would fit a boost controller shortly on returning from japan if I dont do it now, so im working out whats best to do when. thanks

RB25DET dyno thread would be your best place to look for est. power. But rough guess.. Somewhere around 160 - 180rwkw. You might be better waiting until you get the car shipped. How much money are you willing to throw at the car? Any specific goals you want to meet?

Food for thought :)

Ty.

Without a tuned ecu its pointless upping the boost really from my experience with my car once ya got an exhaust cooler and filter u should be around 160-170rwkw my car was running 11psi was nistuned and made the same power on 8psi my car was boring as bat shit till 5500 then took off ! save ya coins for an ecu & tune then look at the boost increase

The goal is to have as much fun with it drifting as I can. I can probably do it three more times before i gotta put it on a boat and leave. Ive been concerntrating on suspension work all along rather than power, but recently Im getting a little tired of the stockish power. I want to be able to spin it up easier in 3rd gear. Seeing as Im never going to own a car and live in japan again, it seems like I should just go for it and get the extra power.

When I get to aus I will slowly think about engine/tuning stuff.

you should be able to hit 9 or 10psi, make 180kw (with TBE FMIC + fuel pump) and be reasonably safe

the stock turbo is very delicate and you should reconsider bothering...

FYI Mick_o is tuning is car to 25psi+ this week, SimonR32 also runs 26psi - both on OEM RB25DET sump/rocker. Mick has GTX71 + E85, simon has T67 + E42.5. Long story short im sure boost pressure is not that important given all the other (read many) variables are in check.

If u run 10psi and it miss fires there are other problems I.e spark plugs, coil packs etc. tbh 3psi increase with a fairly stock setup isn't going to give you the "holy shit the car is soo fast". Yeah sure it feels a little quicker but why risk damage for the sake of like 10kw.

As others have said, after market ecu. If u don't want huge power go nistune. You'll need a few other parts to make it compatible but with a tune you'll net some decent gains. Just make sure you bring it to someone who knows how to tune it.

Buy this-

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbosmart-Boost-Controller-New-Box-Diesel-WRX-Skyline-Silvia-TS-0101-1002-/190611843917?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c6159eb4d#ht_2967wt_905

Then do this-

I done it to mine and have exactly the same mods as u except i have a blitz cooler, the power increase is noticable. Run 8-10psi.

Cheap and easy.

post-87367-0-52722900-1328002520_thumb.jpg

<br />just remember that it's pounds <b>per square inch</b><br /><br />so 10 psi on a stock turbo is very different to say 10psi on a T88<br />
<br /><br /><br />

Whilst everything you say there is true, I am in severe doubt about the scientific reasoning behind your statement.

Boost should really be considered the same way as when dealing with electrical current. 50,000 volts at 0.5 amps is very different to 50,000 volts at 100 amps.

ie; 10psi at 200cfm (for examples sake, stock turbo), compared to 10psi at 2000cfm (T88).

Ty.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys my 94 r33 gtst fuel pump has gone out. I have a walbro 525 ready to go in but am unsure if I need to upgrade the fuel tank bulk heads? Ive heard that others have issues with the stock wiring melting... Ive seen alot of people recommend this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-nissan-skyline-r33-r34-silvia-s14-s15-billet-fuel-tank-bulkhead-hat-top-an6-with-high-current-connector-apex-2-8-delphi-fpg-100?variant=42873255198898 My current pump that stopped working is aftermarket but I had no relay mod or upgraded connectors. Need some advice please. TIA
    • It’s new. It’s the cd009. I did take the transmission apart to mill down the bellhousing and had both housings come off the gears so wondering is something isn’t in right. I am running redline. I can get it in gear running too but it’s just not easier and it’s almost like 2, 4, 6, and reverse all the back gears aren’t happy going in
    • I’ll remember that as a last choice. It’s brand new
    • Got keys and did a walk around the yard planning the landscaping works with the family that I will be doing Main effort: remove all the woodchip in the gardens that are around (attached) to the outside of the house and replace with 10mm blue metal, having woodchip close to the house is a recipe for inviting white ants, currently there are no white ants within the block and I would like to keep it that way I'll be buying some large raised garden beds to grow veggies and stuff, and the woodchip will be mulched with everything else that gets dug up, pulled out, or cut down during works Next will some minor drainage and landscaping maintenance up one side of the house, where the fuse box, AC, and solar stuff will go, about 12 mtrs long by 2 meters wide, I'll break up the soil, add gypsum and then I'll dig in a French drains about 300mm deep x 300mm wide and fill it with agg pipe and blue metal, then level out the whole area with a 50mm layer of blue metal, the soil, whilst currently pretty compacted, will break up well with the gypsum to aid in drainage, I'll then cover the area with a 50mm layer of more blue metal In saying this, the drainage issue is minor, but that little hidden away area down the side is untidy and weedy, and as all of the main elec stuff is there I want it neat and tidy to appease my OCD Again, the material excavated from the French drains with be added to the garden bed mulch, as will some rose bushes and some other crap looking garden plants, and a old apricot tree that is looking worse for wear The apricot tree is currently in a little roundish garden bed that is in the middle of the back yard with few other crappy looking plants around it, that will all be removed, levelled, re-turfed, and is a perfect spot for a hills hoist There is also a area about 3m x 2m between the rear fence and shed that will get some attention, it looks like some stuff was stored there and the grass is dead, that will also get broken up and mulched, and is a prime spot for a pumpkin patch I've guestimated that I'll need: 3 tonnes of blue metal, 12 meters of agg pipe, 5kg of Gypsum, and a hills hoist, so a few bags of concrete as well to set it in place (the house currently has one of those pull out 4 line jobs, whilst it works, I want a retro old school hills hoist), I am also going to run some chickens, there's a great spot for a coop, so a chicken coop to suit 4 of those lovely egg laying bitches will also be on the job card That should keep me busy for a while, and will finish off the back yard ready for a early spring planting of some veggies and berries  Once the main effort is done I'll start out the front, there's a large rock garden that could use some TLC, but that is only minor works Should be fully moved in within 2 weeks, the landscaping works will start then Fun times, retirement is good  
    • It happens, that's what your single stage filler is used for.  If it is still visible after the 3 coats of 2k primer, it will be visible after the paint is laid down.  Its hard to give 100% perfect advice without being there in person, I'm very tempted to say stop where you are, fill your pin holes with a single stage putty first then keep going. 
×
×
  • Create New...