Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just getting my head around the offset required for an R34 GTT. I've searched a few topics, got some ideas, but others tend to run different widths than I want to.

So I was thinking of getting a set of Lenso D1R's in the following size:

Front 18 x 8.5" - +35 offset

Rear 18 x 9" - +32 offset

Tyres i'd organise later, but probably something around 235 on the front and 255 on the rear.

I'd prefer NOT to get my guards rolled. Currently the car has stock suspension, and If I do lower it a bit, it'll be only with slightly lower springs, maybe 2cm lower... not sure on that yet.

Anyways, would that combo work ok?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390656-r34-gtt-wheel-offset-advice/
Share on other sites

I run F: 8.5in +35

R: 9.5in +38

245's all round and lowered about 1.5 inches with no guard work

Fronts are a fairly flush fit with 245's but rears have a slight clearance for either 255's or lower offset. The specs you have listed should give you a good conservative fitment all round.

i got 9.5 +34 with 265 on the rears and my cars pretty low and they dont hit anything[unrolled guards]

Do you run coilovers? Have your rears scrubbed out when crabwalking really steep driveways? I want 265's on the rear now...

OK thanks guys... So nutting through each of your specs, seems i should have no rubbing issues with the offsets I've listed, on either the suspension or body.

It would seem that a 9" +32 is kind of in the middle of what you's are running... one being 9" +20 and 9.5" +38, so as you say, conservative fitment. Not too far in to put massive width on, but not too far out to need guard rolling, which i do not really want to do.

Awesome info thank you guys :)

you will be fine mate, from what i've read 34 GTR wheels (what Rush_ is running) are a good reference point for GTT fitment. Any higher offsets will be conservative.

9.5/10inch looks beast from the rear though ;)

FYI,

Stock 34 gtr rims are 18x9 +30

My rims are Grenade GX01's (gtr replicas) and are +20 (more aggressive offset) :D

FYI,

Stock 34 gtr rims are 18x9 +30

My rims are Grenade GX01's (gtr replicas) and are +20 (more aggressive offset) :D

My mistake...I remember looking at your car at the charity cruise and thinking the wheels looked to sit out a bit more than expected for GTR rims

OP, the standard GTT wheels are +40 offset I believe. Personally I think this is getting to the stage where the rim is too tucked. there is an offset thread somewhere maybe check that out?

Yeah i checked it out, but there's alot of people just rattling off there specs without a definitive idea on how it will sit. Everyone seems to have there own opinion on where the offset sits haha!

The way I see it though is this,

a 9.0" + 32 will sit about the same as a 9.5" +40.

Correct logic? A tyre place i rang recommends D1R's in 9.5" +40. I wonder how tucked in that will sit.

haha yeah it's one of those things you have to get your head around. I can definitely confirm 9.5in +38 on the rear is fine with a few mm to spare and no guard work (and my car is lowered). Maybe ask if you can do a test fitting?

Hmm OK so I've been using this calculator i found in the other thread:

http://marksink.com/tire_wheel_offset/offset.html

Interesting as it gives you an idea of how the new wheel will sit relative to what's there now.

I measured and there's over 50mm clearance between the original wheel and suspension.

Using that calculator,

a 9.0" +32 will mean the wheel is 11mm closer to the suspension and 27mm further out.

a 9.5" +40 will mean the wheel is 25mm closer to the suspension and 25mm further out.

So it would seem it makes more sense to run 9.5"'s because your using more of the available space, have a more aggressive wheel width and actually having less chance of it hitting the guard, being 2mm further inwards.

Opinions?

haha yeah it's one of those things you have to get your head around. I can definitely confirm 9.5in +38 on the rear is fine with a few mm to spare and no guard work (and my car is lowered). Maybe ask if you can do a test fitting?

Yeah i'm slowly understanding it! That calculator I linked above really helps as it shows you exactly where the wheel will sit.

I would test fit but I was buying these wheels online!

Edited by Shoujiki

but then you need to take in to account negative camber, etc. i have 18" x 9.5" +20 front and rear, and they fit very nice. could probably do with slightly wider rears, maybe 10's.

it all comes down to how bad ass you are :P i have a set of 18 x 10.5 +0 offset wheels for when im feeling really badass :P

I used to run...

[F] 18x8.5 +30 225/40R18

[R] 18x9.5 +35 255/35R18

Slightly lowered on coilovers with un-modified guards, never had an issue.

In saying that I was always dissapointed that I had spent over $4k on wheels and tyres and it was never really aggressive enough >_<

18x8.5" +30 on the front & 18x9.5" +38 on the rear for me (nismo lmgt4 rim)

Car is lowered to minimum legal in SA (about 345mm from middle of rim to guard). No issues at all on the rear with 255/35R18. Fronts are a tighter fit even with 245/40R18 - they scrub on full lock going over speed humps, driveways, etc. I'm probably going to raise the front a little to help that.

Thanks for the replies guys, it's great to have some direct information to work with.

I won't be lowering the car too much if i even do, so that shouldn't be an issue. The wheels will never be "in the arches" so :P Even though it looks awesome, for a road car that attracts attention as is, i want to maintain each part of this car legally!

Judging by the replies, i think i'll go for the 9.5" +40 rear wheels. I think it'll fill up the area nicer and still be within the limits of not scrubbing the arches. It's what 2 places have recommended so far. And probably run 235 at the front and 255 at the rear.

Even though 10+": would be awesome and super aggressive, i think i need to restrain and keep it a bit conservative! The GTR people must love the fact they fit big rubber in those wide guards with ease!

Thanks for the replies guys, much appreciated! cheers.gif

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...