Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had a Cooling Pro one - was fine up to 240kw but over 250 tuner said it was not up to it so got an HDi (non return type). If you want a return type and 280 or so kw the Blitz seems a better performer.

I have a Blitz CS, it's fantastic. Don't skimp on parts if you can afford the big brands...they hold their value if you ever want to get rid of them and they can save you many headaches because you can usually rule them out when you have car troubles.

I've got cooling pro 600x300 doing 300kw no problem

The turnflow type is 600 x 240 x 60, yours is probably the same as the blitz.

The main reason for wanting a cooling pro is i really wanted a black one and the other things like its smaller so less lag and better fitment but they dont seem to be an issue for anyone. So 250 would be the most you comfortably push through one of these?

Thanks for all the feed back on the blitz, it does sound like the better option, hope the SE is just as good as the CS though.

How can you colour the blitz black? Haha.

The turnflow type is 600 x 240 x 60, yours is probably the same as the blitz.

The main reason for wanting a cooling pro is i really wanted a black one and the other things like its smaller so less lag and better fitment but they dont seem to be an issue for anyone. So 250 would be the most you comfortably push through one of these?

Thanks for all the feed back on the blitz, it does sound like the better option, hope the SE is just as good as the CS though.

How can you colour the blitz black? Haha.

Im getting 315 on e85 with one and had 270 on 98 without problems for 4 years. The only time it reached it limits and got heatsoaked was after about 20 min continous drifting on a 39 degree day.

Edited by boostn0199

Im getting 315 on e85 with one and had 270 on 98 without problems for 4 years. The only time it reached it limits and got heatsoaked was after about 20 min continous drifting on a 39 degree day.

Is that on the cp or the blitz?

  • 11 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...