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Just need some help ,

Ive installed them with the crank say 10degrees advanced, and the cams in the "happy spot" cause in the proper marks aligned spot they werent sitting to well, the lobe was at a peak on number 6.

the timing marks at about 9 o clock and 3 oclock, whereas the cams are bolted down and sitting at 11oclock and 1oclock

so can i just turn them to there proper marks now without hitting a piston and bending any valves? or have i already bent a valve?:ermm:

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aslong as no piston other than 1/6 is at TDC it'll be fine. safest way is to turn the crank to around 60 degrees after TDC, that way all the pistons will be too far down the boar to do any valve damage

Thanks mate, i managed top line the gears and crank up, the biggest part of the job seems to be putting the timing belt back on, looks like i have to strip all the belts off to get to the tensioner :down:

yeah mate its a mongrel, also make sure you tension it correctly Loosen the tensioner with all marks lined up and rotate the balancer so it all spins around do this a few times and you will see the tensioner move into the correct position. than just tighten it up.

Finally got the car together and started it, it was idling nicely for about 5minutes then the revs went low then it stalled

now it wont start, it will turn over and over but no kick,

have i stuffed the cas? what do you think?

Ye same thing happened to me i rushed to start it and forgot about spacing cas out. Take off cas and if you see metal shavings from the cam gwR bolt touching the cas then yeah its gone.

i took it back off last night and dont see any metal shavings, i actually broke the bracket on the weekend,got it welded yesterday, last night i just put the long bolts on first and then it went on straight, i left all the covers off so i could check for leaks and timing marks etc

how do you space the cas out? i assumed your just bolt all the bits on and make sure the the little match up.

Whatever has happened it must be gone, just seems that the is no spark anymore pinch.gif Assuming the cas needs replaced, should i buy a new one or can i trust a used one again?????

You just put a couple of washers to space it out. Try twisting the cas into random positions and see if the car starts when mine died and i twisted it all the way in one direction it would start but be rough as. After what ive been through with cas never again 2nd hand electrical parts I bought one from wreckers and it was stuffed aswell then got another one that worked for a few months and died retarting timing and leaning tune out so I just got one from rhd brand new.

ok i got a brand new cas, it started and runs well but every now and then the idle goes weird and stalls on me,

any ideas why that would happen, ive checked all the pipes and they look pretty tight but could be improved, i had to fully advanced the cas to make it idle nicely

i did have the throttle body off, ive taken it for a drive and is driving very nice, the cams seem to have made a difference even without boost,

so the issue now is the occasional wierd idle that will start stalling and stall on me...:unsure:

Have you set the timing with a light? Checked all the vacuum hoses out?

[/quote

I havnt used a timing light, at the moment the CAS is fully to the right cause anything less and it cant handle it

ive done all the clamps up and checked, it really seems ignition related cause move the cas to the left and it wont even idle so im wondering if the CAS is the right one or not, Code is 23731-02U11

Also wondering if the cams would be making this happen, i set them spot on the timing marks

should i have set them one tooth back or forward or somthing?

im convinced this must be related to the timing settings on the crank and the cams,

if i have to fully advance the CAS to just make it run, and run bit rough at that then this must mean somthing.

anyone? im not sure what to retard or advance? the crank or the cams?

triple check that all the marks line up perfectly on the cams and crank. then check the exhaust cam still has the cas locator slot, if not make sure the cas is lining up with the correct splines. then get a timing light onto it.

also, turning the cas clockwise is retarding the timing not advancing

after pulling the cover off bout 5times, the cam and crank timing is spot on and the cas is slotting in and working so all i can do now is replace all the silicon hoses and get better clamps and then see.

bloody frustrating, just when it starts idling nice and i think its fixed ill jump in to drive it and soon as the clutch engages the whole things falls apart with lumpy roughness pinch.gif

Would having the O2 sensor unplugged contribute to this problem? the dump that was made has no hole for the 02 sensor.

Finally figured out whats going on,

the new CAS is spaced too far away and the keys arnt even lining up, must be getting dragged on the tip for it to even start i guess.

So can anyone help me figure out how to make sure it is lined up and spaced properly,

How much spacing should be used for the bracket and the CAS, and should i put the cover on or better without,

this all sounds simple but it seems like a really bad design cause the cover is supposed to help center and space the cas but how much ..

might wanna check the condition of the cas if its been running whilst spaced too far out, could have worn down the splines a fair bit.

the bracket should sit hard against the head and then there should be a standard top timing cover thickness between the bracket and the cas. so if your not running the cover you just want a single small washer between the cas and bracket on each bolt

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