Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey I was wondering if there was anyone here who has fought this charge in court, either successfully or unsuccessfully.

I was driving up to Sydney Saturday afternoon and was caught in a blitz at the marulan weigh-in station. As usual, my car was one of many suspicious and/or performance vehicles singled out by police.

The cop was a complete ass in the way he treated me and the whole situation and after being harassed and treated like a criminal who just murdered his mother, i was left holding a $375 fine for not correctly displaying my number plate.

My original r33 GTR front bar does not have any mounting holes for a front plate and I thought that would be enough to exclude me from having to permanently affix the number plate according to sub clause 2(a) of regulation 24 :-

(2) Subclause (1) (a), (b), (d) and (e) do not apply to a vehicle number-plate of a registrable vehicle if:

(a) due to the construction of the vehicle it is not practicable to comply with those paragraphs, and

(b) the number-plate is affixed in a manner that complies so far as practicable with those paragraphs.

I had my number plate affixed inside my front window on the dash, which I know isn't ideal, but is the only option I have without having to alter the original construction of my vehicle by drilling mounting holes in my front bar.

Any help would be much appreciated as I am intending to follow this through to court out of principal.

My opinion only. You will not have legal grounds to fight this in court.

Reason being (b)

- everyone has to drill holes. They sell aftermarket number plate holders to affix to the front of the vehicle.

To the law it will be as if your avoiding correct placement.

The relevant paragraph states A and B

Thats just me and I'm not a lawyer...

I have an aftermarket front bar too. My placement is on the left of the vehicle facing forward.

I can not place it in the centre/front as there is nothing to attach to.

As long as the front and rear number plates are displayed and visible on the front and rear of the car you are fine, they don't have to be in any particular spot on the frot bumper, hence why when ppl have bike racks on the back that cover the number plate they just put a bit of paper with it written on it somewhere visible and don't get pulled up for not displaying their actual number plate. So if you took it to court I imagine you would be able to get rid of the fine

Don't swear by this it's just my impression as I got pulled up for the same thing while getting defected in my old 180 and the cop said it at least needed to be some where visible rather than just not there at all, having said all of this I didn't go to court with it because I had a number of other fines that went along with it that I couldn't fight so all in all this could just be the opinion of someone who has never had a good expirence with cops and not actually be correct

Just with regards to what Jazz said above - I don't believe it's actually legal to make your own number plate in the case of having a bike rack that covers it...It must be an ACT government issued plate (they make them for bike racks too)

However, good luck. I'd say you're likely buggered. As Sin said, it needs to comply with both A and B.

If I were you, I'd be happy with the $375 fine. I recently got done for no front number plate, however instead of a fine I received a defect advising I needed to take it to Dickson. I reported my front number plate stolen and surrendered my remaining plate; RTA didn't give a fark.

So far mine has/will cost me:

Initial inspection at Dickson ($55)

Braided brake lines ($160+fitting)

Borrow legal exhaust ($25+ depending on how long I need it)

ENGINEER'S CERTIFICATE ($1046)

Since it's been more than 1 calendar month from initial inspection, I need to pay full $55 for the next one....which the dream boats will undoubtedly fail me on.

Wanna swap your fine for a defect? lol

Whos full of shit? ..It's an original r33 GTR series 1, not 3, which is pictured above douche.

Anyways as i was saying its all factory. Front bar has an insert for a plate, which is also too small for the standard issued plate, which i could also argue, but like i said, no mounting holes. I have driven my GTR for 4yrs with no hassles regarding my front plate until now.

No thanks Trozz, been defected a few yrs ago, massive hassles. That was the main reason I stayed calm and collected in front of the cop. Stood my ground before, been defected, pepper sprayed, locked up etc..

Expensive, sore and not fun.

Oh i know how to appease the cops who seem to have control issues.

Just looking for some advice on how to approach this.

I know I can drill holes in the bar and make a steel template to fit under the plate so it sits above the insert,

But my query was, if I have to alter the original construction, shouldn't my car be exempt under Subclause 2(a)?

Completely unrelated, but myself and a carload of guys got pulled up at this same blitz on saturday morning on our way to future music festival. I was driving and passed the RBT, but thank god they didnt decide to let that little beagle sniffer dog come near the car...

I got pulled into it, passed rbt, passed sniffer dog and passed defect check. One of the guys from here got a fine for a bald tyre (don't know how bald).

I don't think you have much of a chance as they will say everyone else manages to get their number plate on... Good luck tho... I drilled holes to get mine on, bent the edges of the plate a little so it fits and nobody has had any issues, same with my rear plate.

(a) due to the construction of the vehicle it is not practicable to comply with those paragraphs, and

(b) the number-plate is affixed in a manner that complies so far as practicable with those paragraphs.

Read the rules in their entirety mate, you won't be exempted because it only applies to vehicles where it is not practicable to comply with the rules. Considering 99.9% of R33 GTR owners have successfully mounted a front number plate by drilling holes/using some other sort of mount, what makes your R33 GTR individually unique that you cannot do the same?

Suck it up, pay the fine and follow the rules like everyone else has to.

Read the rules in their entirety mate, you won't be exempted because it only applies to vehicles where it is not practicable to comply with the rules. Considering 99.9% of R33 GTR owners have successfully mounted a front number plate by drilling holes/using some other sort of mount, what makes your R33 GTR individually unique that you cannot do the same?

Suck it up, pay the fine and follow the rules like everyone else has to.

Shock-Horror :O

I'd play dumb and claim that I wasn't confident to drill it myself because I didn't know if there were anything behind the bumper that I could drill into and damage.

THAT and the damage that it may cause the paint would may not be covered under warranty of tje new paint job.

Worked for the missus - but it was the truth.

How about you get a Cusco relocation bracket. And the series 1, as mine, does have a special bracket to mount the license plate on the front centre of the car.

Or as I said invest in a relocation bracket which puts it just to the left of the mouth.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...