Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey everyone, I am after some advice on buying a 32 GTR. I did do a search for a buyer guide but couldn't find anything.

The car that i am going to look at, I have seen before and was very ruff!!! Has been sitting at the dealer for ages, when i say ages i mean years ages..

From memory it had a fair bit of rust in the boot channel and it has a rust stain running down the ride hand side from underneath the quarter window. I am hopeing to get the car on the cheap, so i can rescue the poor thing and eventually get it back on the road. My main concern is identification!! Can anyone give me some advice on what numbers i should be looking out for? and ANY other advice would be great aswell...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/395868-looking-to-buy-a-32-gtr/
Share on other sites

When you say "save it" are you talking a few bandaids to get it driving and have some fun, or get it back to very good condition inside and out?

If its the latter, then i would probably say don't waste your time.

There are nice 32's out there that'll probably cost you half as much in the long run with much less headaches (depending on what needs to be done to save this one)

I'm yet to see anyone "save" a GTR properly that didn't quadruple their intial budget at best and/or spend years doing it.

I'm yet to see anyone "save" a GTR properly that didn't quadruple their intial budget at best and/or spend years doing it.

The voice of reason there. Plenty of good ones and not so good in the for sales section. From the sounds of it, it sounds like a dog and should stay at the caryard.Once rust gets into them look away unless it was driven by Sir Jim and you have very deep pockets.

I was trying to work out how best to reply to this thread because red flags were going off in my mind.

However, my brain seemed to be riddled with rust and I then tried to "save it".

Then I saw Bobby's reply and then I realised...

His brain is not rusty; and now...

Neither is mine!

:)

Ahhhh... Never really thought of all that.. From memory everything was pretty good except the rust. I no that rust isn't cheap to fix and I would be getting a pro to do it.. I was hopeing to get it at the right price.. But then again, if it's bad it's bad and there is really no point in trying to save it..

I have a few, I just don't no how to upload them from my I phone!!

Do you know how to message or email the pics from your phone?

If you do, and want me to post them up for you I'd be only too happy.

Let me know and I'll PM you my details.

Bob.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...