Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have run the snow performance nitro Meth in my system, its basically like a small Nos shot when the system comes on, instant power increase.

mine starts injecting at 8psi and full flow at 25psi, you get the initial surge as it comes on boost and then a second surge shortly after when the wmi/nitro meth kicks in.

I have run the snow performance nitro Meth in my system, its basically like a small Nos shot when the system comes on, instant power increase.

mine starts injecting at 8psi and full flow at 25psi, you get the initial surge as it comes on boost and then a second surge shortly after when the wmi/nitro meth kicks in.

I have been running a coolingmist stage 1 kit in my hilux with the controller added in now and wideband aem a/f (3.4l v6 trd supercharger) for ages now. Ive tried running water, water/meth, meth back to back and its all good in a nutshell. Water actually removes more heat than meth but meth gets rid of heat faster. I'm super interested in trying nitro in small quanities but still have a lot to learn about using more and more meth. I have found more and more meth (bigger injector and now trying 80/20 mix) just seems to keep adding in hp. I picked up 30hp just from adding in the original kit with the boost switch only. Its awesome stuff. Methanol is easy for me to come by but for the guys starting out the 50/50 mix is great. My bro bought the basic kit to add onto his car as a safety buffer zone for the track only.

Check out this link for a brief overview of water/meth systems. Its a bit cheesy but its pretty simple and makes perfect sense.

You guys could have used it a few pages back by the looks of it.

Bit of experience with these kits tells me that the coolingmist ones seem to be the best with aquamist a close second (coolingmist has a better controller IMO mapping from not only boost but can use 0-5v from afm if you still have one). Devils own/AEM ok but $$$ not as good as the first two and snow kits are probably better left alone.

^ that video is a nice basic explanation.

Im of a differing opinion about which kit is better though. From what I have read coolingmist kits are a close second to the aquamist kits, but the aquamist seem a little more difficult to set up.

Has anyone run and aquamist or coolingmist kit in a skyline?

I would think a kit that uses boost to trigger injection would be marginally easier to install than one that runs off of IDC or maf voltage.

The more features you get with the WMI kit you buy, will probably make it slightly more hassle to install.

Jet_r31, do you use a coolingmist kit? Are they of reasonable quality in your opinion and have you used/installed any other kits that you can compare them to?

Edited by Mitcho_7

So ive been doing a little research on evolutionM forums and it appears the biggest worry is getting even cylinder distribution so a lot of people run multiple jets to feed each cylinder.

Which brings me to a query, I'm running a plazmaman forward facing plenum and was going to just set up a progressive system with the jet ~8-10 cm from the TB.

Do you think this would cause uneven flow with a ffp? I'm a little concerned that cylinders 1-3 will end up getting all the mist and 4-6 will "starve" if that makes sense.

Idealy I should probably have a jet in each runner but room is pretty tight and IMO its creating more potential for failure points with multiple nozzles and tees for the feed lines etc.

Thoughts?????

Absolutely anything could happen. From what you thought might, to the complete opposite.

If you want the best distribution, move the nozzle further upstream. Even then, you are at the whim of what the water droplets want to do as they go past the (angled, unless at WOT) throttle plate and then through the plenum.

So, correct me if I'm wrong but are you saying move the nozzle further away from teh TB to give the mist a chance to turn to a gas before it enters the plenum?

Mmmmmm, could work. I'm still Seeing cyl 1 getting more of the mix than cyl 6.

I wonder if say 3 nozzles tapped into the side of plenum itself would help with even distribution ?

That's pretty much what I'm saying. A little more time for a larger proportion of the drops to vapourise, a ltitle more time for them to bounce around and come close to occupying the whole cross section of the pipe (You can no doubt imagine that the cone shaped spray from any nozzle is going to push more drops toward the other side of the pipe if there is enough drop velocity, or if there is no enough drop velocity, then drops won't penetrate more than half way across - therefore you need time for the them to tumble around in the turbulence downstream and spread out.)

3 nozzles in the plenum could work really well....or not. Without decent modelling or testing, there's just no way to know where the water is going to go.

Great, looks like I'll have to go and do a fluid dynamics degree just to figure out where to put my WMI jets.....lol

The evo boys love the stuff, especially in the US. Some of thier setups are very complicated with foolproof failsafes, map switching etc etc.

Unfortunately those of us with teh trusty PFC are pretty much limited to a boost cut type failsafe that will switch to running on actuator pressure.

I'll keep researching and see if can work out something skyline specific.

Would be good if u could angle the jet to spray with the flow of air to help vboid what gtsboy was saying.

But Dave i think u are over thinking it. Many people run with a single nozzle system before throttle body without issue's.

Has anyone seen any motor failures due too unever distribution?

Would be good if u could angle the jet to spray with the flow of air to help vboid what gtsboy was saying.

But Dave i think u are over thinking it. Many people run with a single nozzle system before throttle body without issue's.

Has anyone seen any motor failures due too unever distribution?

Yeah a little right angled jet pointed at the tb would be good, pretty sure it wouldn't effect the air flow in pipes too much.

You could be right though Jez, I may be over thinking it. I suppose if the plazmaman flows ok in it's current state the. It's just going to take any gas from the meth with it and still flows as it should than things should reach number 6 ok.

I suppose that with the stock intake WMI doesn't starve 1 & 6 so probably the same deal???

You'd have to assume that when tuning with uneven distribution, you end up tuning to the cylinder that's getting the least water.

I think this comment makes a lot of sense.

If you listening for knock and you are getting slightly uneven distribution, then the cylinder that isn't getting as much injected into it will ping before the others. As soon as you can hear the engine ping, back the timing off for safety and there shouldn't be any problems.

Having said that, I'm not an expert by any stretch. Most people seem to have no dramas with just one nozzle though... I think like it was mentioned it would be less of a problem with the stock intake on a rb25 compared with a forward facing plenum.

Edited by Mitcho_7

That's what I was thinking Mitcho. On the stock plenum the mist will flow into the middle and "spread" out.

What concerns me with the plazmaman is the most will have to pass over 1,2,3,4,5 to reach number 6.

But as Jez said I think I'm over thinking the whole thing.

Should just connect up the kit and see what happens :)

Has anyone here DIY'd a kit?

Looking at the basic cooling mist stage 1 kit which is just a pump, nozzle, lines and boost switch. Put this together with a "5th injector" style driver running off an injector signal along with a PWM solenoid and presto a fuel proportional WMI kit for under $400 that doesn't use duty cycle to the pump to regulate itself.

Has anyone tried this with success?

Where can you source a solenoid that can be PWM'd and is compatible with water and methanol?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AEM-WATER-METHANOL-INJECTION-KIT-1-GALLON-TANK-30-3000-/360458308794?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53ecfd4cba

this looks like a good kit, comes with nice metal fittings/nozzles and afew safety features too

will prob get this in the near future once i finalise my mods and ready for finaly tune.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...