Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How much did this set you back?

You can get them from rocket or a seller has them on eBay. I think you are better of buying a 20l drum of methanol for $70 and buying distilled water form the supermarket which is $2 for 2 litres. Works out cheaper than paying for postage of the boost juice

Only one bend so all good, most people seem to start boost at 5 psi and have it all in at whatever max boost pressure they plan to run.

I am probably just gonna let Jez pick the sweet spot and see what things are doing low in the load points

For 8 x 1 gallon containers it was 110 bux. I know it's more expensive than mixing it yourself but methanol is VERY carcinogenic plus it's not as easy as going 1 litre of water and 1 litre of meth, you have to go by weight apparently. So I have read but this could be incorrect.

I'm lucky that my car isn't a daily and sees more track time than street driving lately so I'm not overly concerned about the price

Where abouts is this methanol for 20L do we have a supplier down here in ACT

Yeh man we have several, couple in fyshwick and queanbeyan

Didnt know about the by weight measuring, it shouldnt be to hard to work ou with basic chemistry anyway. As long as you mix in the same proportions everytime/ the same as you tuned with and as long as you mix it in a well vented area it should be fine really

Edited by Mitcho_7

Shouldn't matter whether you go by weight or volume. 50/50 volume split would be about 45/55 split by weight, so it's not a huge difference. What matters is that you use the same method every time, don't go by weight for one mixture and get it tuned, then decide to go by volume.

Shouldn't matter whether you go by weight or volume. 50/50 volume split would be about 45/55 split by weight, so it's not a huge difference. What matters is that you use the same method every time, don't go by weight for one mixture and get it tuned, then decide to go by volume.

Exactly my thoughts, stick to the same mix all the way through and itll be fine

Yeah true, didn't think of it that way. I'm just a bit lazy I spose and rocket industries is only a 15-20min drive from work so no biggy for me.

If I find that I end up going through heaps of the stuff I'll look at mixing it myself.

I meant to post this earlier, a good read on how to tune for WMI

http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=8051

So going off that, they have to tune without the wmi running and get the target afr where the tuner is comfortable with. Then turn on the wmi, see how much the afr drops and lean it out/ add more timing (within safety limits of course) to get it back to the target afr.

Sounds logical to me. Might be worth getting them to save a copy of the non wmi tune and give it to you so you have a copy of a safe tune that you can run without having to worry about not boosting etc if something plays up on the kit. That is presuming the ecu doesnt have te ability to swap over maps Eg nistune and power fc

So going off that, they have to tune without the wmi running and get the target afr where the tuner is comfortable with. Then turn on the wmi, see how much the afr drops and lean it out/ add more timing (within safety limits of course) to get it back to the target afr.

Sounds logical to me. Might be worth getting them to save a copy of the non wmi tune and give it to you so you have a copy of a safe tune that you can run without having to worry about not boosting etc if something plays up on the kit. That is presuming the ecu doesnt have te ability to swap over maps Eg nistune and power fc

I have a pfc and fc data logit I'll get Jez to give me some maps.

So I suppose to start with I'll set it for something silly like start boost at 40psi and finish at 50 psi so it just won't come on and get Jez to start from there.

I have no idea when it comes to tuning so maybe someone who knows could chime in and let me know if that link makes things sound like a very time consuming exercise or not.

I assume it would be the same as getting a full tune with a new ecu.

@Titan, thanks for the info mate. When I spoke with coolingmist they suggested the large tank because I do track the car and even they said I will definately go through a lot of meth in these situations.

Has anyone found an intake air temp sensor that is methanol safe yet, do they exist?

I'm not sure it would make much difference even if you could put the IAT sensor after the WMI injector. The real temperature drop would occur when the WMI mixture changes state in the cylinder.

Would be a bitch trying to measure that! :P

on the track is a different story, expect the car to drink it in that scenario.

as its only on when you are on boost and around town thats never an issue as you cant be on boost for long periods, on a race track however most of the time you are out there you are trying to keep it on boost.

for a car thats street only, a small tank is great. the more track use it gets the bigger your tank should be or you will be filling it after every session.

I'm not sure it would make much difference even if you could put the IAT sensor after the WMI injector. The real temperature drop would occur when the WMI mixture changes state in the cylinder.

Would be a bitch trying to measure that! :P

Yeh not so concerned about trying to measure the temperature drop, but my IAT sensor is just before the throttle body. There's no way I could place a WMI injector so that the IAT sensor is out of the stream.

Yeh not so concerned about trying to measure the temperature drop, but my IAT sensor is just before the throttle body. There's no way I could place a WMI injector so that the IAT sensor is out of the stream.

Ahh OK. So you are considering going down the WMI route too? :P

630 ml/min

with variable water meth controller

I think I will use the 625ml/min one that came with my kit. It's a is a bit more than what is recommended for the engine size, but considering the application I think it will be better than the next size down (375ml/min).

Good to hear someone else is going for a bigger nozzle, it has put my mind at ease a bit.

Running 315rwkw, I saw no difference between 375ml and 675ml nozzles, only a bottle that emptied twice as fast.

With the 375ml nozzle, I was able to max out my timing, and that was with a GT3076 and a 0.63 rear housing. If you have a 0.82 rear housing I'm sure that you won't see any gains with the bigger nozzle.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
×
×
  • Create New...