Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have you thought about getting the nismo getrag conversion for your r33? I know its a bit expensive but surprisingly you get a fair bit of stuff for the money and its all new including the box

http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/mission/getrag.html

It is an option. You don't hear of many going bang but really, how strong are they?

Getrag and 4.11's would be crazy short. I'd say there would have to be a diff ratio change in order.

What is the Getrag's limits? I know PPG do a set for them but that's the best bit of $10k for the spikey wheels and associated bits themselves.

PJs Helical dog has had one dog ring changed in all the time he has had the box in his car.

75% is street driving plus countless 10,9 and 8 sec passes.

His car hooks better than most AWD :)

How long has it been in the car?

First hand.

I owned a straight cut dog engagement PPG box for about 4 years. Drove it occasionally on the street, mostly in tarmac rallies etc.

It was rebuilt/refurbished every year without fail, regardless of how it was treated. They just don't handle power as well as people say.

Paul's car will certainly stretch it's limits with 470kw on tap.

These boxes prefer to be shifted hard, the slower you engage the dog rings the more damage you do to them and the gears. It's not always apparent until you pull it down just what slow shifting (street type driving) does to the box.

I sold it and went Holinger. My Holinger is helical, not sure if they all are. It's quieter and easier to drive at any speed without doing damage as a result.

I rebuilt my Holinger pre WTAC and parts alone was $5k! Nothing's cheap or bullet proof when you're chasing big power unfortunately.

There's no simple answer, other than keep saving your hard earned....

How long was the Holinger in before that?

Too much servicing costs, bugger that!

Terry just rang. 6 speed won't cut it, he does heaps of them. OS there is a massive delay and won't cut it anyway. He is looking into a custom straight cut set with a helical 5th that's synchro which uses the Series 3 internals.

*waits patiently*

What it comes down to at the end of the day is cost and luck.

I can afford to put stockers in every year or so, I can't afford a big $$ box then have it pulled down every 2 years for inspection and then possibly replace expensive parts. Billet selectors are $500 each for example.

On the other side you can have a freak stocker or freak billet set last for years and years.

It's just such a jerk of a job.

The stocker didn't last at 370.

See what sorta prices Terry comes back for this custom thing. If its reasonable, I have 4 mates that will snap one up too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...