Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This would speed up the process ;)

Rightio.

I've been offered $19 K with a working head that has V cam. If it's not sold on here it will go to this certain guy, he just can't do it at the moment. So I'm not fussed if it doesn't move.

Might sound like a lot but

GT block - two on here for sale for $10k

Stroker - another $7k

Head cost me $11k

Marcus also sold his engine that was very similar just in a N1 block for $18K iirc two weeks ago.

Rightio.

I've been offered $19 K with a working head that has V cam. If it's not sold on here it will go to this certain guy, he just can't do it at the moment. So I'm not fussed if it doesn't move.

Might sound like a lot but

GT block - two on here for sale for $10k

Stroker - another $7k

Head cost me $11k

Marcus also sold his engine that was very similar just in a N1 block for $18K iirc two weeks ago.

ah so Marcus finally sold his engine

Almost took him a year

Also yeah that's a lot Paul :D

Rightio.

I've been offered $19 K with a working head that has V cam. If it's not sold on here it will go to this certain guy, he just can't do it at the moment. So I'm not fussed if it doesn't move.

Might sound like a lot but

GT block - two on here for sale for $10k

Stroker - another $7k

Head cost me $11k

Marcus also sold his engine that was very similar just in a N1 block for $18K iirc two weeks ago.

Try build it for that price though, good luck!

ah so Marcus finally sold his engine

Almost took him a year

Also yeah that's a lot Paul :D

I bet your motor probably cost as much and you got stock crank, stock springs & lower than factory compression ratio and blowy poncams ;) Edited by Mick_o

I bet your motor probably cost as much and you got stock crank, stock springs & lower than factory compression ratio and blowy poncams ;)

Nup. My motor cost a LOT less than that lol.

Rightio.

I've been offered $19 K with a working head that has V cam. If it's not sold on here it will go to this certain guy, he just can't do it at the moment. So I'm not fussed if it doesn't move.

Might sound like a lot but

GT block - two on here for sale for $10k

Stroker - another $7k

Head cost me $11k

Marcus also sold his engine that was very similar just in a N1 block for $18K iirc two weeks ago.

Paul it went for a fair bit more than that plus a stock engine and all gear to turn my car back to stock.

Wasn't advertised, just word of mouth and went to very appreciative owner.

What people don't get is that to get the sort of responsive power that Pauls engine has costs $$$ and time.

Anyone can build a peak power engine but to build one that gives you that nice big fat torque hit sorts the real engine builders out from the wannabees. Straight line grunt, pfft...you want a drivers car that gives race engine performance every time the loud pedal gets touched and will do it all day long.

You can bang your head all day arguing the point but proof is best kept to actual bum in seat feel but all passengers must wear a nappy as you'll soon get sick of cleaning shit stains off the passenger seat.

What Paul's planning now will be a very special and unique package and engines like these are far and few between because there are no short cuts, plain and simple they cost $$$, a lot of time and frustration.

  • Like 1

What Paul's planning now will be a very special and unique package and engines like these are far and few between because there are no short cuts, plain and simple they cost $$$, a lot of time and frustration.

this ^ has now got me intrigued

Im gonna guess and say that he's going for RB 3.5, with GTX2863r with -5 comp housings, OS88 tranny in an R34 GTR

Yeah the next package will be pure insanity and super special i cant wait!

I can tell you from the drivers seat that the 2.8L is absolutely insane it free revs like an roadbike engine! A tiny blip on the throttle and the needle shoots off to redline as quick as you can blink! In any gear from 2nd gear and 4000rpm HANG THE f**k ON to that steering wheel as shit around you gets blurry and things start coming up REALLY fast!

Ive been in all kinds of wound up stock 2.6s and nothing is remotely as ferocious as this thing is! If you think that your 500kw 2.6L will touch this car you're dreaming as it just makes grunt like nothing I've ever experienced its sad to see it go as it really is a rare engine and theres definitely not another engine around like this thing.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
×
×
  • Create New...